Tempt friends with this wild Texas shrimp dish
‘Steal’ this Creole-inspired recipe from Randy Evans of Brennan’s of Houston
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THIS WEEK: Wild-caught Texas shrimp with ‘biscuits and gravy’ from chef Randy Evans of Brennan's of Houston in Houston, Texas.
Chef Randy Evans has offered some Southern hospitality to our readers by allowing us to steal his recipe for wild-caught Texas shrimp with “biscuits and gravy” — a delicious concoction served up nightly at Brennan’s of Houston, where Randy is executive chef. Brennan’s has been tantalizing Houston’s taste buds with Creole-inspired dishes “with a hint of Texas” for more than 40 years!
The recipe calls for “Texas 1015 onions,” which are the first fresh onions harvested each year with a mild, juicy and “supersweet” taste (you can substitute any sweet onion if you’re unable to find these). The recipe also uses a strainer that everyone might not be familiar with — a chinois strainer is conical in shape with an extra-fine mesh and a wooden pestle, resulting in a very smooth emulsion. Finally, celery brunoise is a fine dice in an approximate one-eighth of an inch cube.
About the chef: Chef Randy Evans was born and raised in Texas and grew up near his grandfather’s farm, eating the freshest produce and vegetables and watching his mother bake countless country desserts, but did not foresee himself becoming a chef. Instead, he studied biology at Baylor University for five semesters, planning to become a doctor like his sister, but, after hosting numerous dinner parties and bragging about his latest antique cookbook find to friends, he discovered that the kitchen was where he truly belonged.
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Often driving out during the day to hand-pick his produce from the vine, soil or the back of a purveyor’s truck, chef Evans is always eager to present the maximum flavor and freshness of his dishes to guests each evening.
One of the best ways he showcases this commitment is with his famed six-course tasting menu, which changes every week. His passion and talent for capturing exquisite flavors also extends to canning his own jellies and jams, which include: Meyer Lemon Marmalade and Jelly; Mayhaw Jelly; Satsuma Marmalade and Jelly; Tomato Jalapeño Jelly; White Pepper Strawberry Preserves; Prickly Pear Jelly; Peach Preserves; Pickled Green Tomatoes; Jalapeño Bread and Butter Pickle and more.
Chef Evans’ other main interest lies in the art of charcuterie, the French designation for “cooker of meats.” His extensive travels throughout Europe have allowed him to sample the comfort foods of many cultures, providing food for thought in his charcuterie work in Brennan’s kitchen.
Wild-caught Texas shrimp with “biscuits and gravy” is served at Brennan’s for $15. This recipe makes six restaurant servings.
Serves six
INGREDIENTS
Wild-caught Texas shrimp with “biscuits and gravy” ingredients:
Buttermilk biscuit ingredients:
Buttermilk biscuit pudding ingredients:
Shrimp gravy ingredients:
Garnish ingredients:
Steal This Recipe® Step by Step Instructions for the Biscuits:
- Combine together the dry ingredients in a small mixing bowl.
- Cut in the shortening, and mix in the buttermilk.
- Combine until just together. Roll out on floured surface half-inch thick.
- Cut out biscuits and bake at 325° for 10-12 minutes.
Steal This Recipe® Step by Step Instructions for the Pudding:
- Melt the butter in a medium sauté pan on medium-low heat.
- Add the 1015 onions, leeks, shallots and garlic.
- Cook until caramelized, add in celery and cook until tender.
- In a mixing bowl crumble the cooked biscuits and fold in the onion mixture, thyme and green onions.
- In a separate bowl whisk together the eggs and cream, and pour over the biscuits.
- Fold the mixture together and season.
- Place pudding mixture in greased 2 1/2-inch steel rings and bake for 20-25 minutes at 300°.
- Reserve warm.
Steal This Recipe® Step by Step Instructions for the Shrimp Gravy:
- Melt 1 tablespoon of butter in a small saucepan over medium-low heat.
- Sweat shallots until translucent, caramelize tomato paste.
- Deglaze with brandy and vermouth.
- Add pepper, bay and thyme; allow to reduce till almost dry.
- Add shrimp stock and heavy cream and bring to a boil.
- Reduce heat to low and simmer for 10-15 minutes or until the sauce almost coats the back of a spoon.
- Strain through a fine chinois.
- Reserve warm.
Steal This Recipe® Step by Step Instructions to serve:
- Heat a small sauté pan over medium-high heat, add bacon lardoons and render until crispy.
- Heat a large sauté pan over medium-high heat, add oil.
- Season shrimp with salt and add to sauté pan.
- Sauté shrimp, being careful not to loosen the heads; add cayenne pepper.
- Once the shrimp are almost cooked, but still slightly gray in the center, deglaze with white wine and honey.
- Allow shrimp to cook through, remove from pan and reserve in a warm place.
- Emulsify ice-cold butter into the honey glaze.
- Bring gravy to a boil, remove from heat, add 1 tablespoon of ice-cold butter and emulsify with a handheld blender.
- Place biscuit pudding in center of plate.
- Surround with a pool of gravy and arrange shrimp around the pudding.
- Drizzle with honey glaze and sprinkle with green onions and bacon lardoons.
MANAGE YOUR RECIPES
Brennan’s Want to nominate your favorite restaurant dish for a “Steal This Recipe” feature? Just e-mail Phil at with the name of the restaurant, city and state, and the dish you would like to have re-created. Want to know more about Phil and food? Visit his Web site at www.supermarketguru.com.
3300 Smith Street
Houston, Texas 77006
713-522-9711
www.brennanshouston.com
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