Pick your paradise in the Bay Islands

Guanaja: Remote access
Guanaja, second largest (and easternmost) of the principal Bay Islands, is a study in contrasts. The tiny satellite cay of Bonnaca, “the Venice of Honduras,” contains most of Guanaja’s population. Houses here are so closely packed together that you’d be hard-pressed to fit another one in. Yet all of Guanaja has only a single road, crossing the northern third of the island, and “rush hour” in this Bay Islands backwater only means that all three of the island’s licensed cars might be on that road at exactly the same time.

Getting around on the main island of Guanaja requires either that you be in excellent physical shape (there are footpaths, but Guanaja is the hilliest and highest of the Bay Islands) or that you be handy with a boat (or know someone who is). Much of the population falls into the latter category, which is good news for divers, as Guanaja’s unusual triple barrier reef system takes skill to navigate, and provides a great choice of dive sites on all sides of the island.

“Guanaja is remote, but that’s why people come here — because it is remote,” says Bill Blakely, director of dive operations at Coral Bay Dive Resort. “Reefs here are vibrant, lively, colorful and above all very healthy. Yet despite our remoteness, we have a great diversity of diving, with 38 moored sites. And we can support it all with a world-class dive operation and the latest technology, including nitrox.”

One of Guanaja’s more unusual sites is Mestizo Reef. Columbus visited Guanaja in 1502 on his fourth and final voyage to the New World, calling the island “Isla de Pinos,” in reference to the profusion of Caribbean pine he found growing here. He also found native Paya people living on the island, and coming out to meet him in dugout canoes that could carry two dozen paddlers apiece. In 2002, to celebrate the blend of New World and Old World that is modern-day Guanaja, lifesize busts of Columbus and Honduran hero Lempira were placed in 65 feet of water on Mestizo Reef, along with a number of 16th-century artifacts — a cannon, a bell, vases and more — that symbolize the first European contact. It’s a moving tribute that also acknowledges the importance of the sea to Bay Islands culture.

Ty Sawyer 'The Venice of Honduras' — Bonnaca, contains most of Guanaja’s population.

Other dives around Guanaja seem custom-tailored to a variety of particular tastes. If you favor wall diving, Bayman Bay Drop and Vertigo both afford drop-offs down to the bottom of recreational limits. Looking for mazes and swim-throughs? Try the Pavilions, Volcano Caves or Black Rock Canyons. For pinnacles, you could hardly match the 80 feet of relief that is the Pinnacle, on the west reef, cited by many visitors as their favorite dive. Wreck divers will enjoy the Jado Trader, sunk intentionally in 110 feet of water in 1987, or the shrimper Ruthie C., in only 45 feet of water and reachable from shore or boat. Another shrimper, the Don Enrique sits at 90 feet next to a well-decorated wall. And as for coral — dive anywhere. It’s there in abundance.

A true off-the-grid adventure, Guanaja is the least visited of the Bay Islands, and does not have as many resorts as its other two Bay Islands neighbors. But the resorts there are will typically pick you up at the airport — by boat. Sound like an adventure to you? It does to us. To check out Ty Sawyer and David Benz’s recent helicopter tour of the Bay Islands, visit sportdiver.com/bayislandshelicoptertour.

Guanaja must do: Seek higher ground
Hike past a pair of picturesque waterfalls to the summit of Michael Rock, more than a quarter of a mile high — a fitting way to celebrate your arrival on the most mountainous of the Bay Islands.

Guanaja must dive
The Jado Trader
Pinnacle
Caldera del Diablo (grouper spawning)
Elkhorn Forest
The Ruthie C.

Don't miss these Travel stories from msnbc.com   Popular ski playgrounds around U.S.   The top-rated travel photos of 2009 Uniquely American: PB&J and cheeseburgers Slice of heaven: The country’s best pizza The fastest disappearing natural wonders

MORE FROM TROPICAL GETAWAYS

Tropical Getaways Section Front

Travel industry gearing up for return to Cuba Caribbean high season: the latest & greatest 4 ways to enjoy the Bahamas as a family Which Hawaii is right for you? World's most amazing rainforests Huge ship, mountain fort may up Haiti tourism Cuba works to become ecotoursim destination 14 islands currently offering major deals North America's sexiest beaches Bahamas reports 5 percent drop in tourists Tropical Getaways Section Front   Add Tropical Getaways headlines to your news reader: