Relax in the kitchen! Two fuss-free recipes
Brigit Binns shows that great cooking is simpler than you think
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Escabeche is a distant Spanish cousin of the Latin American favorite, ceviche, only in this case the fish is slightly cooked rather than raw, and instead of lime juice, the tart note is provided by vinegar. To get a smoky flavor, Brigit simply chars a few tomatoes under the broiler, then whizzes them up with some fire-roasted peppers, and marinates with the wine-steamed shrimp for 8 hours or overnight (this way, the flavors have a chance to get really cozy). The resulting dish is restaurant-level complex, and all she has to do when guests arrive is transfer to some pretty glasses.
Serves 6
INGREDIENTS
Steaming the shrimp over wine for just a bit — not enough to actually cook them through — yields a fantastic, tender and cool texture. Then the mild vinegar solution takes care of the remaining “cooking.” Adjust the steaming time up or down slightly if you use shrimp that are larger or smaller than the ones specified here.
Mise-en-Place: Broil or grill the tomatoes, blanch the shrimp, and make up the chunky escabeche mixture at least 8 hours ahead of time, preferably the night before.
Preheat the broiler (or grill the tomatoes, if you have the grill fired up for something else).
Place the tomatoes cut sides down in an oiled baking dish and place just underneath the heat source. Broil/grill until charred but not incinerated. Ideally, you will have some black bits and lots of dark brown bits. Set aside.
In the base of a large steamer, bring the wine to a simmer. Fill a large bowl with water and ice and place near the stove. Place the shrimp in the steamer basket, cover, and steam for 2 minutes. Immediately plunge the shrimp into the ice water. Simmer the wine until reduced by about half.
Retrieve the shrimp with a slotted spoon and spread on a clean towel while you prepare the marinade.
Throw the charred tomatoes into a food processor and add the roasted peppers. Pulse on and off 2 or 3 times until nicely chunky, but nowhere near perfectly smooth.
In a skillet, warm the olive oil over low heat. When it's hot, add the garlic, and sizzle until golden. Add the thyme, parsley and crumbled bay leaves and cook for 2 to 3 minutes, stirring. Remove from the heat and add the reduced wine, vinegar, paprika, lemon, ½ teaspoon salt, a few grinds of pepper, the tomato/pepper mixture, lemon slices and cayenne.
Transfer the marinade to a large, shallow, non-metal bowl and add the shrimp. Toss together and refrigerate for at least 8 hours, preferably overnight, tossing every once in a while. Return to room temperature before serving; taste for seasoning; adjust with salt or vinegar if desired.
MANAGE YOUR RECIPES
Serves 6
INGREDIENTS
Mise-en-Place: If necessary, thaw the corn kernels. Cook the corn, chop the shallot and snip the chives. Open the bean can; rinse and drain the beans. Rinse and spin-dry the frisée.
In a small saucepan, cook fresh corn in the milk and butter for 8 minutes (thawed frozen corn kernels for 4), till tender. Drain and cool slightly.
In a large bowl combine ½ teaspoon salt, ¼ teaspoon pepper, the olive oil, and white wine vinegar. Whisk together and add the corn, beans, shallots, and chives. Fold in the frisée and serve.
MANAGE YOUR RECIPES
Brigit Binns is the author or co-author of 18 cookbooks, including the Williams-Sonoma series and “The Palm Restaurant Cookbook.” She lived in Europe for 10 years, where she graduated from England's Tante Marie cooking school, owned her own catering business and edited the English-language magazine of Spain’s Mediterranean coast.
While pursuing her career, she has always entertained and had a habit of re-inventing the wheel for each dinner party — often with rather unfortunate results.
But after three marriages on two continents and dinner party disasters in cities and towns across the globe, she's finally learned the truth: Great cooking doesn't have to be hard.
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