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Going over the edge, and into the Grand Canyon

TODAY Travel editor Peter Greenberg on the park’s mesmerizing sights

Photo credit: Merisa Brod Vinick
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By Peter Greenberg
TODAYShow.com contributor
updated 11:19 a.m. ET Sept. 12, 2007

Peter Greenberg
TODAY Travel Editor

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I’ve flown over it, hiked around it, climbed down it and ridden through it, and it never ceases to amaze me. Its average depth is one mile. Its length, about 277 miles. You can find 373 bird species, more than 1700 plant species and 91 mammal species, not to mention more than 5 million mammals — people — who visit each year.

It’s the Grand Canyon, and the surrounding Grand Canyon National Park is more than 1,217,000 acres. And yes, a river (the Colorado) runs through it.

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I first saw the Grand Canyon when I was about 6 years old, flying on a DC-7 from New York to Los Angeles, and the pilot dipped the wings of the plane to the right and asked us to look out the window and see one of the most magnificent views we’d ever have. And that view — of the colorful, swirling rocks of the Grand Canyon — remains with me to this day.

It’s been a National Park since 1919. But there is strong evidence of human habitation in the Grand Canyon dating back to 3,000 or 4,000 years ago, when the Desert Archaic people lived within the Canyon. Native Americans were the primary residents of the Canyon until the 1500s, when Spanish conquistadors stumbled upon it.

Today, the infrastructure of the Grand Canyon is far more accommodating.

Yes, you can still do “flight seeing” over the Canyon, in both helicopter and fixed wing aircraft. But if you want a more up close and personal experience, bring your camera and see the Canyon on the ground.

The Grand Canyon has many overlooks for photo opportunities. Many consider the North Rim to be a great location; due to the rim’s being 1,000 feet higher than the South Rim, it’s less developed, and it has spectacular views of the Grand Canyon.

When to visit
The Grand Canyon is very crowded in spring, summer and fall months. Fewer crowds are found in early spring or late fall. The South Rim is open year-round, but due to heavy snowfall, the road to the North Rim is closed from late October to mid-May. If you want to visit the North Rim, plan on going in early October. January and February are the slowest months, due to winter weather.

Accessibility
The North Rim of the Grand Canyon is most easily reached from Southern Utah, and this area is significantly less crowded than the South Rim.

Keep in mind that the North Rim is closed in the winter due to the snow (usually late October into mid-May). The drive directly from Las Vegas to the Grand Canyon will take you over the Hoover Dam, which is a must-see attraction.

For a great experience in Southern Utah, you can easily head north to Southern Utah and into Zion National Park. A good bet is to drive from Vegas to Zion (85 miles or so) and spend a night or two there before heading to the Grand Canyon (you can find directions here). If you have some extra time, you can also take a detour to Bryce Canyon National Park before driving to the Grand Canyon (it’s about 60 miles from Zion).

Other ways to see the Canyon
Riding a mule in the Canyon is an iconic image, but it is a great way to experience the Canyon. Keep in mind that the rides are often booked two years in advance. South Rim mule rides are offered year-round, both day and overnight trips, while North Rim trips are only available mid-May through mid-October. Trips can be booked up to 13 months in advance. The South Rim has a seven-hour trail ride to Plateau Point and offers panoramic views of the Canyon and the river below. Lunch is included. The overnight ride takes people to Phantom Ranch in the Canyon near the river. Trips range from one to two nights with all meals included. One- to two-hour horse rides are also available on the South Rim trails. The rides are booked through Xanterra Parks & Resorts Grand Canyon North Rim Lodge. For more information, call 888.29.PARKS or visit http://www.grandcanyonnorthrim.com/.

Many of the trails are challenging, but children, senior citizens and disabled people have successfully hiked the Grand Canyon. There are trails on both the North and South Rim that offer spectacular views of the inner canyon. The Rim Trail on the South Rim offers an easier option, while Bright Angel Point Trail and Cape Royal Trail on the North Rim are paved and not time-consuming. For those looking for more of a challenge, Bright Angel Trail, South Kaibab Trail, Hermit Trail and especially Grandview Trail offer longer and more demanding options on the South Rim. The North Rim has ten other trails ranging in distance and difficulty.

Overnight hiking and camping requires a permit from the Backcountry Information Center. Early planning is recommended, as there are more requests for permits than the Canyon’s environment can sustain. The earliest you can apply for a permit is on the first of the month, four months prior to the date requested. There are 15 trails as well as numerous obscure routes to the inner canyon. The Grand Canyon Field Institute offers guided trips.

An important caution: It is not recommended to hike from the rim to the river and back again in one day.