Dresses dominate New York runways

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Nautica
Nautica launched New York Fashion Week Wednesday morning with a potential debate: Will hemlines be a relevant issue to men next spring?

Many of the crisp twill pants were worn just above the ankle and the shorts hit mid-thigh, shorter than Bermudas but longer than athletic shorts.

Even the one classic three-piece suit, done in a navy pinstripe, had a shorter than average hem. But what really caught the eye was the linen banded collar shirt worn underneath that helped this handsome outfit straddle a warm-weather casual look and business-appropriate refinement.

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Dressy outfits were, though, far and few between. Swimsuits dominated the collection — the brand name is Nautica, after all — and those mostly hit the knee like the board shorts the surfers wear.

But the overall look here was more European sailor than surfer. The colors were American with red, white and blue and pops of yellow and silver, but the fitted striped T-shirts, colorful scarves and pocket squares had flair and flamboyance.

Tahari
Welcome to the softer side of Tahari.

Elie Tahari chose to present his spring collection Wednesday in a white space — decorated with patches of green leaves and ethereal dresses — instead of the nearby bustling Bryant Park tents that are home base for the editors, retailers and stylists attending New York Fashion Week.

The Tahari label is best known for its tailored pieces, especially its well-fitting women’s trousers, and they will indeed be offered next season, but the designer said it was time to highlight the long, fluid look.

Slide show
New York Fashion Week
BCBG Max Azria, Perry Ellis unveil their 2008 spring collections at Bryant Park.
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“It’s happy,” he said. He added that the inspiration was global travels but not a specific place. “Pick anywhere in your imagination.”

Floral-print caftans and deconstructed safari jackets outfitted the mannequins as did loose floor-skimming sundresses — they were probably too casual to be called gowns — in desert colors.

A beautiful sky blue was featured on a whisper-light long jacket worn over a white wrap blouse and sarong skirt with an abstract floral print and again on a crinkly ruffle-neck blouse worn under a white linen jacket with short sleeves and mother-of-pearl embellishment around the neck.

Tahari himself picked as his favorite outfits of the collection a navy dress with white around the V-neck and loose linen pants in that same abstract floral print but in earthier colors that had a high waist and wide legs.

Menswear is a part of the collection, too, and the inspiration there was sporting influences. The intention, he said, was to offer versatile styles that can move from the urban landscape to weekend excursions.

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