Island-hopping along the Dalmatian Coast

By Sheila Norman-Culp

updated 2:16 p.m. ET Aug. 8, 2007

SPLIT, Croatia - Up and down the stone piers of Split's raucous port we walked, past a melange of ferries, yachts, tugboats and fishing vessels. Up and down.

Past double-decker sailing yachts with racks of bikes onboard. Past fishermen on low-slung dinghies, squinting at the clouds. Past hobbyists racing 4-foot-long remote sailboats like it was Croatia's own America's Cup.

But nowhere, nowhere was the catamaran that was supposed to whisk us out to Croatia's sun-drenched coastal islands.

"I think it's called the 'Navratilova,'" my husband said.

Thirty minutes later, when we did find the Novalja, we had to laugh. It was a catamaran ferry, not a sailboat. A speedy, muscular workhorse that links Split, the main port along Croatia's upper Dalmatian coast, to the islands of Brac, Hvar, Solta and beyond.

Our Croatian adventure had begun.

Spanish beaches too overbuilt for you? Italy and Greece too crowded? French Riviera sound too expensive? Maybe it's time to go island-hopping in Croatia.

Located east of Italy across the Adriatic Sea, Croatia expects over 200,000 American visitors this year — nearly double the number that arrived in 2005. It also tied for the No. 2 hot destination this year in a survey by the U.S. Tour Operators.

And no wonder. The water is clean and clear, the sun constant, the crowds easy to ditch (except in Dubrovnik), the Croatian kuna a mere 5.33 to the dollar. I usually snort at tourist-advertising slogans, but Croatia's new one — "The Mediterranean as it once was" — is right on the money.

It's been quite the turnaround from the four-year war that engulfed the country in the mid-1990s as Yugoslavia disintegrated. Croatia emerged with a 1,100-mile coast coast; the crown jewel, the walled city of Dubrovnik — a UNESCO heritage site — and enough islands (1,185) to make Greek tourism officials sweat.

Plus, unlike other European destinations (anyone been to London lately?) Americans can afford the trip.

If you go Croatia: 800-829-4416. By air: Croatia Airlines has non-stop flights into Split from many European hubs — London, Munich, Brussels, Vienna and Zurich — one-stop flights from a dozen other European airports and constant connections with Zagreb. The island of Brac also has its own small airport. Ferries: On the Web site you can find the routes and times of all the major ferry companies in Croatia. Jadrolinija is the largest. International ferries also go from Split to Ancona, Italy, and back. Money: The Croatian kuna is about 5.33 to the U.S. dollar. Many island restaurants and merchants do not take credit cards, except in the biggest ports of Split and Hvar, but banks in all towns change money. Languages: Aside from Croatian, German, English and Italian are spoken. Historical sites often have background information in German, not so much in English. Renting sailboats: Several companies rent yachts to explore the Croatian islands: http://www.findcroatia.com/ or http://www.croatia-boat-charter.com or http://www.yacht-rent.com. Beaches: Croatian beaches are narrow and are made up of small round pebbles — not sand. But with a wiggle of the hips, you can burrow yourself into a comfy spot. Bring good water shoes.

The hour-long ferry ride from Split to Bol was $4. Our 45-minute bus trip from Split's airport to the port was $5.50. Renting a bike for the day was $13. A made-for-two fresh seafood platter was $46. An all-day (14-hour) ferry excursion from the island of Hvar to Dubrovnik and back, complete with meals, was $128.

You get the picture.

Any visit starts with a flight into Split and ebbs and flows with the ferries, whose summer schedules run June through September. In May and October, the weather is still lovely but the ferries are more limited. Our trip ended with an overnight stay in Trogir, just north of Split, whose UNESCO-designated port was overflowing with 100-foot yachts (we counted 24) gearing up for a week of island-hopping with European tourists.

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A warning — don't be horrified by Split. Yes, its outskirts are a testament to the very worst of Cold War architecture, with rows upon rows of crumbling cement towers. But the center of town holds Diocletian's Palace, built in A.D. 293 for the Roman emperor, a must-see stone-walled maze of narrow streets, tiny shops, bars and restaurants.

From Split, we headed out to Brac, Croatia's largest island, and the timeless, charming town of Bol. Croatia's most popular beach, Zlatni Rat, lies less than a mile to the west, an undulating collection of smooth pebbles that sticks straight out into the sea and shifts daily.

Seas are quiet in the morning, building to a hearty afternoon breeze that draws kite sailors like bees to honey. It's free entertainment: An experienced kite sailor can leave you mesmerized with their graceful flips; a novice can leave you in hysterics as his kite plunges repeatedly into the sea.

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