Sweeten up your dish with an earful of corn

1. Cut the kernels off the corncobs by standing the corncob on its flat end on a cutting board or in a roasting pan and slicing down against the cob. Set the kernels aside. Cut the cobs into 2-inch sections.

2. Combine the oil and pancetta in a 2-quart saucepan and cook over medium-high heat to render the fat and crisp the pancetta, about 5 minutes. Remove the pancetta with a slotted spoon and set aside. Discard all but 1 tablespoon of the fat.

3. Reduce the heat to medium. Add the shallots, garlic, and corncobs and cook until the shallots are softened but not browned, about 3 minutes. Pour in the wine and reduce until almost dry. Add the cream and simmer very gently for 5 minutes. Remove from the heat, cover and let the sauce steep for at least 15 minutes.

4. Bring 4 quarts of water to a boil in a large pot and add 2 tablespoons salt.

5. Strain the sauce through a fine-meshed strainer into a straight-sided skillet or saucepan large enough to hold all the pasta. Place over medium heat and whisk in the cheese in small pieces. Season with 1 teaspoon salt and the pepper. Add the pancetta, corn kernels, tomatoes, scallion and basil. Bring to a simmer, turn off the heat, cover, and set aside.

6. Cook the fettuccine in the boiling water until al dente and drain in a colander. Add the drained pasta to the sauce and toss until the pasta is well coated. Transfer to a platter and serve hot.

1. Cut the corn kernels from the cobs and reserve. Chop the cobs into 1-inch pieces. Place the cob pieces in a 2-quart saucepan with the water and half the salt and pepper. Bring to a boil, lower to a simmer, and cook, covered, for 30 minutes. Strain and reserve the corn broth.  Discard the cobs.

2. Melt the butter in the saucepan over medium heat. Add the cumin and cayenne and allow to sizzle for 1 minute, stirring. Stir in the corn kernels, leeks, onions, potatoes, and celery.  Season with the remaining salt and pepper and cook until the vegetables are wilted, about 7 minutes.

3. Add the corn broth and simmer until the vegetables are tender, about 30 minutes.

4. While the soup is still hot, pour into a blender and purée until very smooth. It may be necessary to do this in more than one batch. Strain the soup through a fine strainer and chill in a bowl over ice.

5. When chilled, stir in the buttermilk and adjust the seasoning to taste. Serve in chilled soup bowls, sprinkled with chives.