Navigating the history & heritage of Arlington

Of particular interest is Freedman's Village. This is located in Section 17, a southern section of the cemetery, and was land that was given to more than 1,100 freed slaves in 1863 to be a “model village.” However, they were turned out in 1890, when the government bought back the land for the memorial. Today there are 3,800 grave markers of residents of Freedman's Village during and after the Civil War.

Arlington is almost as much a museum as it is a burial ground. The Women in Military Service memorial is just outside the Ceremonial Entrance Gates. The exhibit hall has both permanent and temporary collections, each of which honor women’s contributions to our military defense. There are photographs of women from the American Revolution to today, diaries, letters, service documents, military items, uniforms, recordings of bands and recruiting films.

You can find permanent exhibits on World War II and the Korean War. Rotating exhibits this year include the 50th Anniversary of the Women's Armed Services Integration Act, the Women's Memorial Dedication and the 25th Anniversary of Women in the Chaplain Corps.

Near the cemetery is the Air Force Memorial, between the cemetery and the Pentagon. This memorial honors the more than 54,000 Air Force members who have died in combat, and also commemorates previous organizations such as the Aeronautical Division, U.S. Signal Corps; the Aviation Section, U.S. Signal Corps; and the U.S. Army Air Corps.

Visiting Arlington requires a little planning. Not surprisingly, the busiest days are on Easter, Memorial Day and Veterans Day. Approximately 5,000 visitors attend each of the memorial services that take place on these days in the Memorial Amphitheater. Easter Sunrise Service starts at 6 a.m., while Memorial Day and Veterans Day services start at 11 a.m.  Before Memorial Day is big with school bus tours.

Perhaps the best time to visit is in late September or in October, with fewer crowds. And you can also see Arlington by the tour-mobile, a trolley that winds around the cemetery. But if you’re looking for a quiet moment, away from the crowds, then within 200 feet of the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier you’ll find some lovely, quiet and shady areas. And that’s where the real beauty and serenity of Arlington surrounds you. Try — if you can — to go very early in the morning or very late in the afternoon. That’s when the light bathes the cemetery in the most special aura — as you stand there, on the hill overlooking the graves of America’s heroes, and acknowledge and honor, in your own way, such a large part of American history.

Peter Greenberg is TODAY's travel editor. His column appears weekly on TODAYshow.com. Visit his Web site at PeterGreenberg.com.

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