Travel outside the box — uncommon trips

Peter Greenberg TODAY Travel Editor • Profile

I always laugh when I tell people where I've been, because of their almost inevitable response. Almost always, it's: “Really? That's not on my list.”

Not on my list? Not on your list? Who publishes this list? Do unevolved travelers actually get together early each morning and synchronize their lists?

And what's on the lists? The usual suspects: France, Italy, Spain. Why? I'm convinced the listmakers are all failed art history majors who figured they had studied the artwork in college, so they might as well go see it, at least once.

Based on the most recent accounting, there are 314 countries and distinct destinations around the world. I've been lucky enough to have visited 146 of them — or about 145 more than most Americans. (Remember, only about 24 percent of U.S. citizens have passports!)

So what's on my list? Every destination that I've never visited!

Of course, it goes without saying that some places are easier to get to than others. But when I can finesse the logistics, I always figure out a way to go. And so should you.

So here are three of those countries/destinations that are probably NOT ON YOUR LIST. But should be. They certainly qualify on my own new list: the next great places.

Greenland
Until recently, one of those hard-to-get-to destinations was... Greenland. I've been there before, but not by choice. I landed there once in an emergency landing years ago, when we lost an engine on a transatlantic flight. And the second time, a refueling stop on a delivery flight of a small jet.

But recently, I made the conscious choice to visit the largest island in the world, which is suddenly (and slowly but surely) becoming a travel hot spot. Imagine a place that's more than three times the size of the state of Texas, but has only 56,000 people. Think that's small? Imagine a country that has only two (I counted) traffic lights. No main roads between cities. And only two (I counted again) motorcycles. Why only two traffic lights? Greenlanders don't need them. And why only two motorcycles? About 20 years ago, after a number of serious motorcycle accidents, the government banned motorcycles, allowing only those that were in the country at the time to continue to be operated. And that number is now down... to two!

Greenland/John Mcconnico for AP

Some may think that Al Gore put Greenland on the map, but of course, the Vikings beat him to it. However, it has now become ground zero, the focal point in the growing awareness about global warming and the melting ice caps. You want ice caps? For the moment, at least, Greenland is the place for you. Of Greenland's 840,000 square miles, 84 percent of the country is covered by those melting caps.

And until recently, there was no easy way to get there from the U.S.

But in late May, new air service was started between Baltimore and Greenland; the four-and-a-half-hour flight goes twice each week on ... Air Greenland. And early last month, I flew to Baltimore and hopped on board the flight.

The service is only seasonal, running between May and the end of August, on 197-passenger 757s. On the flight I took, only 23 passengers were on board: five research scientists, three wildlife photographers, my camera crew and about 11 diehard tourists — proof positive that Greenland is still a pretty well-kept secret.

Which is exactly why you should go.

Don't look for luxury hotels. Many hotels are converted barracks left over from a large U.S. military Cold War presence, which just about ended 15 years ago. Don't look for lush vegetation, since there are no trees in Greenland.

And you don't go for the nightlife. In the summer, don't even look for nightfall. Try light, 24 hours a day.

But Greenland is a country with incredible wildlife and marine life, great fishing and wide open spaces. It's also a country where it's virtually impossible to have a bad view — you're looking out on miles of pristine fjords and glistening glaciers.

No beaches here. And no summer swimming. As the locals like to joke, you'll freeze before you drown. Unless, of course, you're wearing a dry suit.

And, if you're wearing that dry suit, there's great kayaking. If you've got a warm parka, then try dog sledding, paragliding, and yes, even golf on the world's most northerly nine-hole course.

What's particularly great about Greenland tourism is that the country isn't set up for it — there are few organized tours. And refreshingly few brochures. If you want to go fishing, go down to the dock and ask one of the locals if he or she is taking the boat out. Then hop aboard.

Scientists come to Greenland to research the melting ice caps (84 percent of the country is ice). But smart travelers also come to experience things they'll never get to do elsewhere: musk ox safaris, special boat excursions out to the glaciers, and exploring the icebergs floating freely in the fjords. Want to go fishing? Drop your line in the water, and you catch fish.

My most memorable Greenland experience? Just about everyone has a boat, so instead of organized tours, just go down to one of the docks and ask someone if they're going out. They're happy to take you, and in the summer months, as you hug the rocky coastline, the melting glaciers form an almost never-ending series of waterfalls dropping directly into the sea.

What's for dinner? Other than seafood (excellent), virtually everything else is imported. If you want shrimp, no problem. It's the biggest industry. Steak? It's flown in from Argentina via Denmark. Fresh vegetables? Be prepared to pay dearly. There are some notable exceptions: You can order reindeer lasagna, which is proof positive that with enough sauce even cardboard tastes terrific. But a wonderful and unexpected dish: musk ox carpaccio. Delicious. And one dish I tried (when in Rome...), but which I have vowed never to try again: whale. (Rubbery, oily, and it does NOT taste just like chicken!)

Cuisine notwithstanding, there are a number of compelling reasons to go to Greenland, and a lot of them are focused on the ice from the glaciers. The ice, some of which is as old as 60,000 years, is used to brew Greenlandic beer. Even beer and soft drinks are made in Greenland using local water. And the ice is now being harvested to make a special, very pure Greenlandic vodka called Siku (in Greenlandic, siku means “ice”).

Bottom line: The luxury of Greenland is not in the accommodations or the food. Don't come expecting spas and pampering. The true luxury here is that you get to be first on your block to explore a very special destination. Greenland may be ground zero for the display of global warming, but for the moment, from a travel perspective, the refreshing news is that there's no global swarming. And remember, the air service is only seasonal, and only twice a week until the end of August.

It's time to amend your list.

Travel facts: Twice-a-week nonstop service on Air Greenland from Baltimore to Kangerlussuaq, around $1100 roundtrip. There are tours offered as well. Seven-night tours from General Tours start at $3199 a person, and include air flights within the country as well. More info from www.greenland.com

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