$45 ribeyes graze at Texas ranch

"The interest in Wagyu (Japanese cows) is growing rapidly," said David Lunt, who has spent decades researching Japanese cattle and is the associate head for operations at Texas A&M University's animal science department.

Choice grade ground beef — the kind pickier Americans will buy from supermarkets for July 4 barbecues — sold for an average $3.97 per pound last year, according to the National Cattlemen's Beef Association. HeartBrand's ground beef sells for $6 per pound, while a 12-ounce ribeye goes for $45, a cost that at least partially reflects the expense of caring for the animals.

"This is a beef that's eaten on special occasions," Lunt said.

The rich price tag helps give the meat a cachet and drives demand, he said. And because it's seen as an occasional luxury, diners are less likely to worry about the overall fat content.

"It's like if you go into a Rolls Royce dealership, I promise you they're not going to brag to you about the gas mileage," Lunt said.

Charles Gaskins, a member of the American Wagyu Association board, said chefs have known about Japanese cattle for years, but because of the expense of importing the meat, American alternatives have become popular.

The highest quality beef in Japan is raised by ranchers with only a few head of cattle. The animals receive individual care, Gaskins said. American ranching operations, even small ones, are generally too big for that.

But no matter how coddled Calles' cows are, they may not pass Japanese muster. Researchers note the taste and consistency of beef is affected by more than genetics; feed and other environmental factors also play a part.

At least one Japanese chef says Texas-raised animals cannot produce meat as good as coveted Kobe beef.

"The taste and flavor of meat grown in the U.S. is completely different," said Yoshiaki Matsuda, the owner of the Seishin Hanten restaurant in Kobe, Japan. "The difference would be obvious to the eyes of a professional."

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