One day — and night — in Bangkok

For years the traffic problems of Bangkok were so grave that they discouraged many travelers from going there. Be it known that the new elevated motorways, which crisscross the city, have eased the problem greatly, and it’s now possible to visit this fascinating and important city in relative ease. And in this kaleidoscopic metropolis, there’s no end to the adventures you may have. 

8:30 a.m. – 12:30 p.m.: Indulge your latent “King and I” fantasies at the Grand Palace. Yes, Anna — the tutor to the children of King Rama IV — lived here, and once you roam the impressive grounds (the buildings are usually closed to the public), you’ll understand why that hoop-skirted belle was so awed by the place. Be sure to make time to see Wat Phra Kaeo, also on the grounds. This magnificent temple houses the much-revered Emerald Buddha, covered in its seasonal robe. So important is this statue that the King himself changes those robes in a solemn ceremony three times a year.

Morning alternative: Discover how limber you are (or aren’t) with a Thai massage. Kind of like a guided yoga session in which your limbs are twisted, turned and stretched into various pretzel-like configurations, it can be a fascinating if slightly painful experience, although most end up feeling refreshed. Head to Wat Po, the city’s most famous massage school, for your “rub down.” Stay on to explore the temple, with its massive reclining Buddha (110 feet long and 50 feet high, swathed with gold leaf).

12:30 – 1:30 p.m.: Fast doesn’t mean flavorless in Bangkok, which has some of the finest fast-food restaurants and street-food stands on the planet. And it doesn’t get speedier (or tastier) than at Roti Mataba, where in minutes you’ll have an addictive flat bread in front of you, stuffed with your choice of chicken, beef, fish or veggies. Just as masterful are the dessert rotis, bathed in sweetened condensed milk.

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1:30 - 4 p.m.: Head next to the largest museum in southeast Asia, Bangkok’s National Museum. While bigger isn’t always better, here the size is justified, as this is a vast storehouse of Thai artistic and architectural treasures. Among the highlights are the Red House, once owned by Princess Sri Sudarak and filled with many of her original 18^th century furnishings (along with other period pieces); the exquisite Buddhaisawan Chapel (1787); and the bling-bling jewelry collection, some owned by the royal family, in the main museum.

Afternoon alternative: If you’ve already explored the historic side of Bangkok, indulge yourself with a shopping spree, in this world-class “wrap-it-up-and-charge-it” city. There are maze-like open markets to explore; dozens of knockoff stores, where the fakes are indistinguishable from the famous label fashions they’re aping; fine craft and antique stores; and of course, silk emporiums, where you can buy the soft stuff in every color of the rainbow.

5:30 – 8 p.m.: Though the name may not sound appetizing, the food at Cabbage and Condoms certainly is: classic Thai food, served in a large complex of rooms (sit outdoors among all the twinkling lights). Profits from the meals here go to the Population and Community Development Association, a nonprofit group that supports AIDS education, population control and a number of rural development projects.

8 - 11 p.m.: Witness a high-drama, fast-moving Thai boxing match. Along with the fight (which involves both kicking and punching), the fun is in watching the live-music acts that punctuate the action; and the spectacle of dozens of hyped-up gamblers, shouting wagers into their cell phones as the matches unfold.

Pauline Frommer is the creator of the new Pauline Frommer guides in bookstores now. Her book, Pauline Frommer's New York, was named Best Guidebook of the Year by the North American Travel Journalists Association.

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