Frommer's nightlife in Lima

updated 10:49 a.m. ET May 29, 2007

As the largest city in the country, with a population of immigrants from around the country and the most international flavor, Lima certainly has Peru's most varied nightlife scene. Whether you're into jazz, criollo, Latin, or rock music, you'll find it. The best after-dark scenes are in Miraflores and particularly Barranco, which is transformed from a sleepy artists' and writers' community during the day to party central at night. Although it has a number of high-octane clubs and discos, it also has some of the city's best peñas and bars, especially those with ocean views just past the Puente de los Suspiros, or "Bridge of Sighs."

Bars open at about 8 p.m., but discos and live-music clubs don't generally get started until 10 p.m. or later. Many are open very late, until 3 or 4 a.m. or even later.

The Performing Arts
Lima's stunning Teatro Municipal, the pride of the local performing-arts scene and the primary locale for theater, ballet, opera, and symphony performances, burned to the ground in 1998. Since then, the National Symphony Orchestra and the National Ballet Company have performed at the Museo de la Nación, Av. Javier Prado (tel. 01/476-9875). The 1940s-era Teatro Segura, Huancavelica 265 (tel. 01/426-7206) has picked up some of the slack for opera and music concerts. Frequent cultural events, including films and music recitals, are held every week at the Centro Cultural Ricardo Palma, Larco Herrera 770, Miraflores (tel. 01/446-3959), and the British Council, Calle Alberto Lynch 110, San Isidro (tel. 01/221-7552). The Instituto Cultural Peruano Norteamericano, located at the corner of Angamos and Arequipa in Miraflores (tel. 01/446-0381), hosts theater, jazz, classical, and folk music. See the daily newspaper El Comercio (www.elcomercioperu.com.pe) or www.decajon.com for updated lists of live performing-arts events in Lima (in Spanish only).

Lima has a good theater scene, although, as one might expect, nearly all plays are in Spanish. If you speak Spanish or are willing to give a Spanish play a try, two of Lima's best theaters are Teatro Canout, Av. Petit Thouars 4550, Miraflores (tel. 01/422-5373), and Teatro Auditorio Miraflores, Av. Larco 1036, Miraflores (tel. 01/447-9378). Tickets are available at the box offices.

Bars & Pubs
Miraflores
Freiheit, Lima 471, in front of Parque Kennedy (tel. 01/247-4630), is a warmly decorated bar, in the style of a German tavern. The dance floor is separate from the bar area. There's a drink minimum on weekends. O'Murphy's Irish Pub, Shell 627 (tel. 01/242-1212), is a longtime favorite drinking hole with a small menu of pub grub. Of course, expect a pool table, darts, Guinness on tap, and Brits and Irishmen hoisting it. They also host live music on Thursday. Son de Cuba, Bulevar San Ramón 277 (tel. 01/445-1444), is on the pedestrian street called "Little Italy" by locals, but the club focuses on Caribbean rhythms and drinks Tuesday through Sunday.

Barranco
The area past the Puente de los Suspiros in Barranco has some of the coolest watering holes in Lima. Check out La Posada del Mirador, Pasaje La Ermita 104 (tel. 01/477-1120) and Nuevo Acantilado de Barranco, Pasaje La Ermita 102 (tel. 01/247-2145). Both occupy old houses overlooking the ocean and have spectacular verdant settings with indoor and outdoor garden seating. A trendy bar drawing a younger crowd is Amnesia, Bulevar Sánchez Carrión 153, just off the municipal square (tel. 01/477-9577). It's open only Thursday through Saturday. Posada del Angel, Av. Pedro de Osma 164 (and 222; tel. 01/247-0341), is a baroque cafe-bar with two locations on the same street and occasional live jazz and folk music. Dirty Nelly's, Av. Pedro de Osma 135, Barranco (tel. 01/477-4506), the bar at the now-defunct hostel Mochileros, is a cool pub that hops with young people who spill out into the courtyard.

Lima Centro

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There are two excellent pubs downtown owned by the same folks. One is Rincón Cervecero, a German-style bierhall, at Jr. de la Unión 1045 (tel. 01/428-1422). The other, Estadio Fútbol Club, Av. Nicolás de Piérola 926 (tel. 01/428-8866), is strictly for fútbol fans: It's a three-level bar (and disco on weekends) that amounts to a museum of the sport, and with dozens of big-screen TVs, it can get pretty rowdy when a big Peruvian or international game is on.

Live Music
Barranco
My vote for best live-music club in Lima is La Noche, Bolognesi 307 (tel. 01/477-5829). Despite its prosaic name, this sprawling multilevel club feels like a swank tree house, with a great stage and sound system and good bands every night that run the gamut of styles (although it's frequently jazz), plus a hip mixed Limeño and international crowd. Monday night jam sessions (no cover charge) are particularly good; otherwise, cover charges range from S/5 to S/15 ($1.50-$4.30). There's also a La Noche outpost in Central Lima, at the corner of Jr. Camaná and Jr. Quilca. Artsy El Ekeko, Av. Grau 266 (tel. 01/247-3148), is a two-level place with live music Wednesday through Saturday. Most acts fall within the Latin category -- often Cuban. Cover charges range from S/10 to S/20 ($2.85-$5.70). La Estación de Barranco, Pedro de Osma 112 (tel. 01/247-0344), is another nice place, housed in an old train station, with live music Tuesday through Saturday and a slightly more mature crowd (both locals and tourists); the music on tap is often música criolla. The classic upstairs bar La Taberna de Barranco, Av. Grau 268 (no phone), schedules both live rock and pop for the youngsters (often early shows beginning at 9 p.m.), and occasional peña and Afro-Peruvian shows late on weekends for a more sophisticated crowd. Either way, the bar is one of the coolest in town, even if it's gone much more commercial in the last few years.

Miraflores
Satchmo, Av. La Paz 538 (tel. 01/444-4957), is a classy joint with a variable roster of live bands, including jazz combos -- as the name would indicate. It's a good date spot. Cover charges range from S/20 to S/45 ($5.70-$13). Another great spot for live jazz (as well as bossa nova and Afro-Peruvian evenings) is Jazz Zone, Av. La Paz 656, Pasaje El Suche (tel. 01/241-8139). Crocodilo Verde, Francisca de Paula 226 (tel. 01/442-8425), has jazz on Wednesday and a variable program of live music on weekends.

Peñas
You should check out at least one peña, a performance at a criollo music club that quite often inspires rousing vocal and dance participation, during your stay in Lima. Cover charges range from $1 (30¢) to $10 ($2.90), depending on the act.

Miraflores
Caballero de Fina Estampa, Av. del Ejército 800 (tel. 01/441-0552), named for one of the most famous Peruvian songs of all time, is one of the chicest peñas, with a large colonial salon and balconies. The cover charge is a little hefty for Lima: S/45 ($13). Sachún, Av. del Ejército 657 (tel. 01/441-4465), is favored by tourists and middle-class Limeños who aren't shy about participating with their feet and vocal cords. The cover charge ranges from S/25 to S/45 ($7.15-$13).

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