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Secrets of the South Pacific

For honeymoon happiness, stray off the beaten path in style

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Classic hula dancers on Kauai, the northernmost of the inhabited islands and hands-down the most spectacular.
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  Hawaiian paradise
The Hawaiian Islands are the perfect vacation destination for travelers of all types.
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By Jad Davenport
updated 3:05 p.m. ET May 17, 2007

There’s nothing quite like the classic honeymoon in Bora Bora or Maui -- which is why so many couples go there. But what if you could have the beauty and romance of the South Seas without all the other travelers? We found five overlooked and under-crowded destinations across the Pacific that you won’t want to miss.

Hawaii
Cartography aside (Hawaii actually sits north of the equator), the Hawaiian Islands are the postcard South Pacific isles of your dreams -- complete with jungle-draped volcanic crags splashed by champagne-foam waves, black (or white or green) sand beaches, bowed coconut palms and hip-wiggling hula dancers. And it’s just a short five-hour hop from the mainland -- all this without ever cracking your passport.

The Classic: Most couples head straight to Maui, second largest of the islands, where they snorkel the dramatic ruins of the collapsed Molokini Crater, hip-hop the night away at Hapa’s Kihei nightclub, and kick back along the resort zone of Kaanapali. Maui also has more than 80 public beaches along its 120-mile coast, including Fleming Beach, which was deemed the best beach in America for 2006 by Dr. Beach.

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The Unexpected: To really get away, fly into Kauai, the northernmost of the inhabited islands and hands-down the most spectacular. (Grab a window seat on the right side for a sneak preview of Kauai’s mist-shrouded Mount Kawaikini.) Locals will tell you the island is the way Hawaii used to be, especially along the brooding northern coast and the 43 sugar-sand beaches unspoiled by high-rise hotel strips.

Outdoor enthusiasts gravitate to the Napali Coast, a rugged 15-mile stretch of fluted sea cliffs where nature still prevails. Hike the first two miles of the 11-mile Kalalau Trail to Hanakapiai Beach, where you’ll find a hidden slice of sand and sea caves. No matter how seemingly inviting, though, do not swim in the ocean here -- the currents can be deadly. Instead, cool off in the crystal-clear mountain stream that tumbles to the beach or lounge in the warm tidal pools.

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  Polynesian paradise
The Hawaiian Islands are the perfect vacation destination for travelers of all types.

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If hiking isn’t your thing, a number of companies run catamaran cruises along the Napali where you can snorkel with sea turtles and photograph acrobatic pods of spinner dolphins. Or don your scuba gear and head out with Blue Dolphin Charters to go down below and mingle with the sea life. My favorite dive site is Vertical Awareness, a plunging sea wall off nearby Niihau. Also called the Forbidden Island, Niihau is open only to native Hawaiians. You may not be allowed to set foot here, but keep an eye on the coastline -- it’s a favorite haunt for endangered monk seals.

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Green Sea Turtle Swimming
  Magical Maui
This Polynesian paradise is an adventurer’s playground, and will enchant and inspire with its unique, natural beauty.

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But perhaps one of the most exhilarating and romantic ways to see the entire island is on a helicopter tour. Jack Harter Helicopters will take you up in a four-passenger Hughes 500 for 60 or 90 minutes; the doors can open to the wind, making the Jurassic Park peaks and free-fall cascades seem close enough to touch.

Where to stay: Kauai gets the most rain in the state; if you want optimum sun time, book into the activity-filled Grand Hyatt Kauai Resort and Spa, located on Poipu Beach, on the sunnier south shore. Doubles from $490.

The top option on the quieter north shore is the palatial Princeville Resort, overlooking the half moon of Hanalei Bay. They’ve got great golf on two courses, easy access to eco action like hiking and zip lining, and a great luau every Monday and Thursday night. Doubles from $500.

Australia
The wonderful island continent of Oz offers Americans a fun-house glimpse of themselves. The Outback -- particularly the great Red Centre -- is the American West on steroids, with vast deserts speckled with mining towns and sheep stations so remote farmers fly to the nearest store. The tropical Queensland coast is a dash of Sunbelt Florida with a Neptunian Disney World of colorful sea life.

The Classic: The triple-header has always been Sydney, the Great Barrier Reef and the Outback. Sydney is one of the world’s most beloved cities, with attractions like Sydney Harbour and Bondi Beach, where tanned locals gather for drinks on weekends. Cairns (pronounced “Cans”) and nearby Port Douglas are the gateway to the reef -- and where the Aussies head on their holidays to put on their bathers (swimsuits), tip a few stubbies (beers) and fire up the barbie. And “the Alice” -- Alice Springs -- is where you head to see a kangaroo and marvel at the sparse vegetation,  striking rock formations and crimson-hued soil of the great Red Centre.

The unexpected: It’s still the Great Barrier Reef and the Outback (and you’ll fly through Sydney no matter what), just a little farther … out. The Great Barrier Reef lies a good hour or two offshore from the Queensland Coast, which means day trips take up just that, each way, with a big part of the journey pounding through the choppy Coral Sea. Fortunately, the same coral that makes up the largest reef system in the world has created a series of islands on the outside fringe, many of which have become world-renowned resorts.

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Northern islands like Lizard have a dry, Mediterranean feel -- sort of a Crete-meets-Catalina atmosphere -- while those farther south including Dunk and Bedarra are lusher and reminiscent of Hawaii. One of the most exciting ways to experience the reef is by snorkeling or diving at Cod Hole, where grouper the size of VW Beetles beg for food like puppies. For something more romantic, embark on a picnic -- just you two, a hamper stuffed with crab salad and a bottle of Hunter Creek Shiraz, and all afternoon on a private, reserved beach.

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  Awesome Australia
From the majestic opera house to the rugged outback, explore and experience Australia.

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Far from the sparkling sea in the very Red Centre of the island continent, you can make a pilgrimage to another monolithic reef. Uluru (also called Ayers Rock), a 1,100-foot-tall sandstone ridge that rises from the flat desert pans of the Australian Outback south of the Alice, is one of the most mystical natural wonders in the world, as well as a World Heritage site. The traditional owners -- the native Anangu -- frown on tourists climbing the sacred peak, but you can take guided ranger hikes around part of the base (a full loop takes around five hours). Rangers will point out red kangaroo tracks and ancient rock art done in the aboriginal Dreamtime tradition. The nearby Cultural Centre, with the Ininti Store and adjoining Maruku Arts and Crafts Centre, makes a nice souvenir stop.

Where to stay: On the Great Barrier Reef, Voyages Lizard Island is a vogue 40-villa resort with 24 powder-soft-sand beaches. Doubles from $1,137, including meals and activities. Outback living has never been as luxurious as in the elegant tent-roofed suites at Longitude 131°, dramatically situated on the edge of the park. Doubles from $1,422, including meals and activities.


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