Plan an African adventure in Cape Town

Peter Greenberg TODAY Travel Editor • Profile

I have a confession to make. If I could figure out a way to be able to commute from Cape Town to New York, then I would quickly move there. I felt that way the first time I traveled to South Africa, more than 25 years ago. And I still feel the same way today.

Why? There are many compelling answers, not the least of which is that the U.S. dollar is still strong in South Africa, the coastline is staggeringly beautiful, and then, of course, there is the wine.

First, let's address the subject of getting there. There are no nonstop flights to Cape Town from the U.S. Most people connect through London, and some will take the nonstop flights to Johannesburg and then connect. (J-Burg has nonstops from Atlanta, Newark, NY-JFK and Washington-Dulles on South African Airways, which codeshares with Continental as a member of the Star Alliance.)

South African Airways is currently running a special to Johannesburg or Cape Town (or Durban, actually), where roundtrips start at $1175 (+ taxes, which are about $125) from NYC and Washington, D.C. Fares generally fluctuate in the $1200-1500 range for flights from a major American hub to Johannesburg. When you compare costs, once again a RTW (round-the-world) ticket may be your best bet (through airtreks.com). The cost starts at $1800, but your options increase exponentially, with dozens of destination choices, as long as you continue your journey in the same direction.

To get between South Africa’s major cities, South African Airways has a new carrier called “Mango” that flies, for example, between Cape Town and J-Burg. The cost for this flight is about $38 one way, including applicable taxes. Compare this to the lowest-cost train, the Shosholoze Meyl, which starts at $45 one way.

Hotels
Waterfront accommodations in Cape Town, while lovely, tend to be the more expensive, higher-end hotels. Cape Town is situated on a narrow peninsula, divided by the Table Mountain. The city center, located on the western shore, is known as the City Bowl, A little further out are some elegant properties — in the upscale Oranjezicht suburb is twentytwo, a four-room guest house. This property has amazing views of the mountains, the city and its harbor; it is walking distance from the city center, and a 10-minute drive from the beaches. The guest house has a kitchen, a pool, and each room is en suite with a private balcony or panoramic windows for great views. Low season rates from May to August are about $175 a night, up to high season rates of about $235 from September through April. (www.capetwentytwo.com)

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The trendy village of De Waterkant is filled with shops, sidewalk cafes, wine bars, and more than 80 accommodations from backpacker lodges to upscale hotels. De Waterkant House is walking distance from the city center and Victoria and Alfred waterfront. There are nine guest rooms, from basic to luxury. The best one is the Harbour View suite, which takes up the whole top floor, from $70 to $134.

In Cape Town, there's the Mount Nelson Hotel. Open since 1899, this high-end traditional resort is a favorite of celebrities like Oprah, South African native Charlize Theron and Kate Moss. Located a few minutes walk from the city center on the foothills of Table Mountain, it offers tennis, nearby golf, and on-site personal trainers at the gym. The Cape Colony Restaurant features Asian-influenced dishes, plus a kids menu for the family-friendly touch — definitely try to reserve the chef’s table, a 10-seater in the kitchen where you can interact with the chefs. The outdoor Oasis Restaurant is more casual, outdoor dining with a jazz trio. My suggestion: I think the Mount Nelson is a little too stuffy (and overpriced), so instead of staying there, I recommend going there for traditional afternoon tea. Room rates start at $527 to $2,000 a night.

Cape Grace Hotel: It's situated right on the Victoria and Albert Waterfront, and it's my favorite in Cape Town. You really can't beat the location, and the hotel is also surrounded by cafes, wine bars and gourmet restaurants, not to mention galleries and clothing shops. It's a relatively small hotel, with 122 rooms available, each of which have views of the marina, Table Mountain and the waterfront harbor. Room rates start at $505 in the low season, and start at $630 in the high season (www.capegrace.com/). Another compelling reason to go to the Cape Grace is the basement — that's where you'll find the hotel bar, not just any bar, but a bar devoted to celebrating single malt scotch.

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Food
Constantia Uitsig Winery: You don't have to go all the way to Stellenbosch, the legendary South African wine area. Contantia Uitsig is understated one-stop shopping — wine, dining, accommodations and a safari in one place — located about a 20-minute drive from the city center and waterfront. The 200-acre private wine estate is close to Cape Town’s Table Mountain, and is great for hiking, walking and horseback riding, and offers an on-site cricket field and the nearby Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens.

Constantia is known for its Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon and red and white Bordeaux blends, with 75 acres of vines. This region of South Africa has been producing wines since the 17th century. You can’t go wrong eating at any of the three restaurants on site. Constantia Uitsig Restaurant seats 120 guests in its Manor House — the top-rated cuisine is a blend of Italian and even Asian flavors, under Chef Frank Swainston; La Colombe offers Southern French-inspired cuisine (note, very rich food), and noted as number 28 in Restaurant Magazine’s top 50 restaurants in 2006; the River Café is more relaxed and casual — definitely go for brunch or lunch to sit in the flower and herb garden, while drinking the local white wine.

The hotel has 16 rooms, former estate cottages with private terraces, with great views of the valley. Rates start at $224 for low season (April-November) and $343 for high season (December- March). But the best kept secret: the owner is a self-admitted cricket fanatic, and even built his own cricket pitch on the premises. What this means is that if you ask, he might just teach you how to play the game. (www.uitsig.co.za/constantia_uitsig/uitsig.html)

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