Be the king (or queen) of the castle in Ireland

Peter Greenberg TODAY Travel Editor • Profile

Day two: Ireland
My first trip to Ireland was not by design. For many years, it was almost a mandatory stop for charter flights, because the country made itself open to operators hoping to land American tourists in Europe. And so the jets stopped there.

And that's when I discovered the enduring beauty of this country, especially the southwest of Ireland. And from then on, my trips to Ireland were unabashedly intentional.

Transportation
The two biggest airlines operating out of Dublin are privatized Irish flag carrier Aer Lingus and ultra-low-cost carrier Ryanair. Aer Lingus has competed with Ryanair (which grew up competing for the Dublin-London route) for so long that they’ve been forced to become quite competitive price-wise, and are thus able to offer quite cheap fares, even across the Atlantic, despite the fact that Ryanair doesn’t compete on its international routes — yet.

Dublin has non-stop flights from: Atlanta, Chicago, Houston, Los Angeles, Philadelphia, NY-JFK, and Newark.

Sample prices:

• $739 LAX-DUB on United via Philadelphia
• $506 ($597 w/tax) LAX-DUB nonstop on Aer Lingus
• $386 ($477 w/tax) JFK-DUB nonstop on Aer Lingus … yes, that is roundtrip fare.
• $562 ($638 w/tax) EWK-DUB nonstop on Continental

Many travelers like to rent cars when going to Ireland. I'm not one of them, because I don't want to subject myself (or you, if you're anywhere near me) to the terror of driving on the left side of the road. Instead, I recommend the Irish rail system, which is actually quite efficient and fairly inexpensive. Roundtrips from Dublin to Limerick are 41 euros, to Cork are 44 euros, while Dublin to Galway and back is 30 euros. They also offer roundtrips to Belfast for 36.50 euros. (www.irishrail.ie/home/)

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Lodging
You can stay in numerous hotels throughout the country, but my suggestion is to try a castle! Ballyhannon Castle in the west of Ireland is a 20-minute drive from Limerick (10 minutes from Ennis). It’s got all the touches of a 15th-century Irish castle, from medieval dining room to a dungeon, plus six-foot thick walls and stone spiral staircases. The castle is surrounded by acres of farmland, and is three miles from the town’s pubs and shops. There are three double bedrooms and one twin room in the castle, and the adjacent Coach House has three double bedrooms and kitchen. My advice: Bring friends, and you can rent the entire castle for two or more nights starting at $1350 (split among seven people), or the Coach House starting at $540. (www.ballyhannon-castle.com/)

Ashford Castle is a world-renowned castle hotel, located about a 30-minute drive from Galway on the shores of Lough Corrib, Ireland's second largest lake. Rooms range from basic accommodations to luxury suites, and there is a spa on site. Nearby activities include fishing, golf, horseback riding and lake cruising. Rates range from $237 to $937. (www.ashford.ie/)

I'm also a fan of a number of Irish hotels, ranging from the Dun Raven Arms in Limerick to the Temple Bar Hotel in Dublin’s cultural hub of the Temple Bar neighborhood. Right outside the door are cobblestone streets jammed with pubs, bars, restaurants and galleries. The hotel has
129 rooms, with mid-week rates starting at $81, and weekend rates (with full Irish breakfast included) starting at about $160. (www.templebarhotel.com/)

For a five-star experience at affordable prices, head to Cork and the Kingsley Hotel. Located in Victoria’s Cross (about a 20-minute walk from the city center) and overlooking the River Lee, the hotel is newly refurbished with large rooms, super-king beds and an on-site spa and health club. Otters restaurant serves Irish food (more than just potatoes — it’s seafood and local game). Take afternoon tea, while overlooking the river at the Sabrona. Special bed and breakfast rate starts at about $200 a night. (www.kingsleyhotel.com/)

The Burren region on the west coast of Ireland is a quiet area dotted with ancient castles on a landscape made of limestone that has a surprising lunar quality. Just outside the village of Ballyvaughan, stay at the Gregans Castle Hotel, surrounded by a beautiful garden where you can pick up a game of croquet. This area is great for hikes, stopping in local pubs and lots of lively Irish music. Room rates start at about $300 a night. (www.gregans.ie/)

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Food
Larchwood House in Cork is surrounded by a three-acre garden cut by the Ouvane River. If you thought Irish food was only potatoes, think again. I can happily report that Irish gourmet food is not a contradiction in terms. The best part about it is that you don’t get gourmet portions — the plates here are huge and hearty. Try the lettuce and rhubarb or carrot and peach soup, sea bream with sesame seeds, loin of lamb with lemon and mint, desserts like warm chocolate cake with caramel sauce and peaches baked in puff pastry. The on-site B&B is available for overnight stays. (Pearson's Bridge, Bantry, Co. Cork, +353 (0)27 66181)

Tides Gourmet Restaurant in Cork offers excellent seafood with a gourmet twist. Try steamed Ballycotton Bay mussels tossed in a coriander, honey and sweet chili cream sauce, creamy seafood chowder or pan-seared fillets of sea bass with a sundried tomato cream sauce. There is also a bar for more casual or early dining. (024-93127, www.tidesrestaurant.ie)

These days you can find anything you want in Dublin — Italian, Chinese, Mexican, American. But what about good Irish food? Sample traditional Irish cuisine with a European twist at Gallagher's Boxty House. What's a Boxty? It's a traditional Irish pancake, cooked on a griddle, filled with a huge variety of ingredients and soaked in a sauce. Try boxty filled with beef, lamb, chicken, cabbage, corned beef or fish, among other options. Irish stew, smoked salmon and  vegetarian dishes are also on the menu, and of course wash it all down with a pint or two of Guinness. (www.boxtyhouse.ie/)

One word of advice: After the boxty experience, schedule a long walk, followed by a longer nap!

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