It's Valencia's turn to be in the spotlight

"It was a win-win situation. Thanks to the America's Cup we have been able to advance the work behind certain infrastructures," Salinas said. "The exposure from this event — an international event that will hit all across the world _ has accelerated the process and provided the city with a platform to improve its tourist image, giving Valencia a certain presence as a unique destination."

Consorcio 2007 — a partnership between the mayor's office, the regional and national governments and private firms — has spent $680 million on infrastructure surrounding the marina, which includes Port America's Cup, the docklands and some of the city's oldest neighborhoods. And it's only a fragment of the $2.65 billion spent since works initially began in 2003.

Architectural firms GHT and Jean Nouvel will reshape the immediate area surrounding Port America's Cup once the event is over, with the Turia Gardens extended to the sea, clearing out old industrial lands, parts of "la huerta" (crop-growing hamlets) and a section of the Grau neighborhood to make way for high-rise apartment blocks and green spaces.

Lying 500 meters (yards) from the port is Cabanyal, a once-proud fishing village that is the oldest neighborhood after the historic city center, a working-class "pueblo" of marina homes showing the signs of age, with many of the mosaic-covered buildings overtaken by squatting gypsies.

If the six-lane Avenue Blasco Ibanez is extended to the beach as planned, it will run directly through here, taking out 10 city blocks with it.

Even though the America's Cup is expected to generate $4.9 billion in revenue while creating 40,770 jobs for the region over the next eight years, not everyone is happy about the changes in Valencia. "To build (America's Cup) infrastructure, we've destroyed heritage. We're losing our identity in exchange for tourism," said 43-year-old firefighter Juanjo Martinez, out watching the yachts from Port America's Cup.

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"Building attractions like the Science and Arts complex — which is a cultural attraction — will bring many tourists and is a different thing. But building the infrastructure for the America's Cup is only for a certain few people. After it leaves, who will this area serve?"

Salinas, the tourism director, believes the investment will pay for itself.

"We don't look at the Cabanyal project as a way of attracting tourists. It's thought of in a way of what's best for the city. It is a side-effect of change that will be good for city sense and its citizens," he said.

Then there are the costs.

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"The America's Cup? It's great. I get to work longer hours for less money than before," 62-year-old taxi driver Jose Gutierrez said. "Valencia is Spain's most beautiful city. But it comes at a cost and I'm paying out so it can look like it does today."

More neighborhoods and a new soccer stadium will come, maybe even a Formula One racetrack. A recent newspaper editorial signaled Valencians are tired of change — and just want tourists to accept them for who they are.

"Cities are not theme parks that have to compete to see who offers the most novel attraction. While (London, Paris, Rome) knew to conserve their identity — here it has been lost forever."

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