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Japanese looking to supersize their diet

Krispy Kreme and McDonalds are part of ‘in-your-face-food’ craze

Douhnut-hungry Japanese can have to spend up to an hour in like at the Tokyo Krispy Kreme shop.
Vincent Thian / AP
updated 5:35 p.m. ET April 3, 2007

TOKYO - After years of staying slim on a humble diet of fish, vegetables and rice, Japanese are developing a sweet tooth. That's proving a business opportunity for Krispy Kreme and other fast-food chains from the U.S., home of the Big Gulp and supersized fries.

Since opening in December, Japan's first Krispy Kreme Doughnuts Inc. store is drawing long lines for an hourlong wait or longer just to get in. In the first three days, 10,000 people came to the shop.

"The texture was fluffy and sticky, unlike any other doughnut," said Yoji Yahagi, 22, who stood in line with his girlfriend to eat two chocolate doughnuts each.

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The couple is typical of a growing number of Japanese who are gobbling up doughnuts, ice cream, pastries and other calorie-rich goodies. Food writer Mei Hojo says health-conscious eating remains a big trend in Japan, but it has also produced a bit of a backlash — especially for American-style food.

"People aren't satiated. That's why they are going for doughnuts and ice cream. It's a search for satiation," said Hojo, who wrote "Super Calorie Recipes."

Krispy Kreme isn't the only American chain riding on Japan's latest binge.

Earlier this year, McDonald's Corp. got such rave reviews for the Mega Mac, selling at a brisk 1.7 million in four days, it's bringing back the four-patty burger in April and May.

Cold Stone Creamery, which arrived in Japan in 2005, has also been a hit. It promised "the ultimate indulgence" in ice cream, tossing in fruit, cookies and nuts. The chain is opening three stores in Japan in March and two more in April, bringing the total here to 13.

And with enthusiasm running high for American food, Burger King Corp. plans to return this summer. It withdrew from Japan in 2001 after a price war with McDonald's.

The move toward tummy-filling meals has also been a plus for Japanese companies making supersize noodles, ice cream and deluxe burgers.

The trend is so widespread Japanese coined the phrase "in-your-face-food" to describe it, underlining an apparent desire to escape the stresses of a health-conscious regimen and let go for a change.

"Perhaps behind it is the human psychology that sometimes you crave in-your-face-food to forget about counting calories," top business daily The Nikkei reported recently.

The shift is ironic coming at a time when Americans are turning to Japanese food like sushi and tofu in an effort to stay trim. Japanese are far skinnier on average than the American population, according to World Health Organization statistics.

Although concern about obesity is increasing here, it has not reached the epidemic levels of the U.S. Cold Stone Creamery downsized its servings for the Japanese market.

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