True Hawaii

Lanai: A Private Sojourn

Top Three Quiet Corners
Garden of the Gods: In Lanai’s northwestern uplands, this eroded canyon appears as if deities had scattered boulders like birdseed. Go at twilight.Polihua Beach: At the end of a four-mile dirt trail on Lanai’s northwestern shore lies this beach, which is almost always deserted. Kaunolu Bay. Commune here on the island’s southern tip, where spinner dolphins are framed by sea arches (fragile lava carved by the sea).

Take a Hike
Hike the seven-mile (round-trip) Munro Trail up to the 3,370-foot summit of Lanaihale mountain. Foot trails also fork off the main trail. Munro is famed for its panorama; on a clear day, the islands of Maui, Molokai, the Big Island, Oahu and Kahoolawe loom in the distance. To get to the trail head, take Keomoku Road, turn right at Cemetery Road and follow the signs. You can also drive on a one-lane dirt road.

Spin Your Wheels
Lanai has fewer than three dozen miles of paved road. To explore the island fully, rent a jeep or hire outfitters to take you on guided off-road expeditions. Consider these three pit stops: Shipwreck Beach on Lanai’s northeast coast, where you can wander eight miles of shoreline, beachcombing for shells; Kanepuu Preserve, which bursts with rare plant life (and the adjacent weirdness of the Garden of the Gods); and Luahiwa Petroglyphs, carvings that date back as far as the 15^th century in lava rocks clustered at the foothills of the Palawai caldera. For guided road adventures, try Trilogy Ocean Sports Lanai, www.visitlanai.com; or Adventure Lanai Ecocentre, www.adventurelanai.com. If driving yourself, always check out road conditions first.

Kahuna Touch
“Massage” is a convenient European term, but the Hawaiian art of lomilomi, passed down over time through the teachings of the kahunas (priests), is both massage and spiritual reconnection. Recipients of a true lomilomi experience not only experience physical relaxation but also an erasure of anxiety and negative thoughts. The Four Seasons Resort Lanai at Manele Bay and The Lodge at Koele both offer 50- or 80-minute lomilomi massage.

Factoid
Many people often use Hulopoe Beach near the Four Seasons Resort Lanai at Manele Bay on the island’s south coast as a lookout for spinner dolphins. Its grassy swards are also a favorite local picnic spot. The tide pools along the southernmost stretch of Hulopoe Bay are some of Hawaii’s best, filled with starfish, sea cucumbers and banded coral shrimp.

Insider Tip
Contrary to popular belief, relaxation burns calories. The locals recoup their energy reserves at the Blue Ginger Café (across the street from Dole Park) in Lanai City. Try the mahimahi sandwich.

Molokai: A Storyteller’s Retreat

Three Legendary Places
1. Halawa Valley: Long kapu (off limits), this valley, with its ancient temple walls and sacred taro patches is steeped in myth and inexplicable happenings — home to ancient prophets and rivers said to suddenly change course. A knowledgeable guide is a must to hear all the stories of this valley. Try Molokai Outdoors. 

2. Kalaupapa: Walk or hire a mule to take you to the settlement of Kalaupapa on the island’s north shore. Once home to a leper colony, today you can tour the area, visit St. Philomena Church and see how the handful of remaining residents live at the foot of the world’s highest sea cliffs. nps.gov/kala

3. Aloha Music Camp: Learn to play the slack-key guitar and the ukulele, study hula and the lovely nuances of Hawaiian language. Also you can build your own ukulele with luthier Dennis Lake. Participants at this weeklong camp stay at The Beach Village at Molokai Ranch, a secluded retreat on Molokai’s west side. Rates from $825 per person per week, including accommodations, meals and workshops.

The Real Swing
According to moolelo, or oral history, a woman named Lai lai made her home at Kaana on Mount Maunaloa in west Molokai. There she astonished all with her beguiling dance. For five generations her secrets passed only to her descendants, who performed their magic only at Kaana. Then Laka, a descendent of the Lai lai clan, spread the knowledge of hula throughout the Hawaiian islands. Now the birth of hula is celebrated each year on the third weekend in May with the Molokai Ka Hula Piko, a festival where you can learn this uniquely Hawaiian dance. Kaana is now private property, but on the Saturday of the celebration the gates swing open from 3 a.m. to 4 a.m. – when the rising sun symbolizes renewal and rebirth – for all to experience its mana, or spiritual power.

Playing Games
In January, the island celebrates Ka Molokai Makahiki, a festival of Hawaiian games and competitions, including ulu maiku (a circular stone pitched through stakes), kukini (foot races), kimo (similar to jacks) and konane (similar to checkers) — honoring Lono, the god of peace and fertility.

Factoid
Molokai was once the spiritual center of the Hawaiian islands, a place where the kahunas, or Hawaiian priests, wielded the strongest mana. “Molokai Pule O’O,” goes the ancient saying, “Molokai with its powerful prayers.”

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