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True Hawaii

Six unexpected adventures on each unique island

Walk or hire a mule to take you to the settlement of Kalaupapa on Molokai's north shore. Once home to a leper colony, today you can tour the area, visit St. Philomena Church and see how the handful of remaining residents live at the foot of the world’s highest sea cliffs.
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By Ken McApline and the ISLANDS editors
updated 12:25 p.m. ET March 2, 2007

When you think of Hawaii, do you think of ukuleles, surfing and luaus? Not bad images when plotting your escape, but we’re going to expand your vision of these Pacific isles. We present you with six unexpected, themed adventures. Whether you love snorkeling, hula dancing, food, silver-screen scenery, exotic flowers or absolute privacy, we have uncovered just the Hawaiian-island activity for you.

Big Island: A Gourmand’s Journey

Six treats to try
1. Dry roasted macadamias: Drive to Kona Coast Macadamia Nut & Candy Factory, at  Highway 11 and Middle Keei Road in Captain Cook.

2. SPAM musubi: Eat SPAM served on rice wrapped in nori, at Matsuyama Food Mart on Mamalahoa Highway in Kona.

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3. Poke: Taste raw fish seasoned with salt and seaweed or with soy sauce, garlic and ginger at the KTA Super Stores in Kona, Hilo and Waimea.

4. Kalua pork quesadillas: Stop in at the Bamboo Restaurant in Hawi

5. Japanese rice cakes: Also called mochi, sampled these cakes at the Two Ladies Kitchen in Hilo

6. Malasada: Try this sweet, deep-fried Portuguese donut at the Tex Drive-In in Honokaa

Back to Basics
Yes, there are first-rate restaurants like Merriman’s in Waimea, where a meal is a fine-dining experience, but you can also learn some of the back story of cutting-edge Hawaiian cuisine by signing on for a Hawaiian Agricultural Adventure with Hawaii Forest & Trail. First you’ll visit Kahua Ranch and Honopua Farm, a working cattle ranch and organic farm in the Kohala Mountains near the island’s northern edge. Then you’ll follow your chosen ingredients a short distance from their source to Waimea and Merriman’s dining room for a four-course dinner showcasing these homegrown items, from beef and lamb to honey-sweet corn and organic greens. www.hawaii-forest.com

Try This
On the Big Island of Hawaii there are few limits to gustatory pleasure, from scallops topped with spicy guava sauce to the working man’s loco moco (white rice topped with a fried egg and any manner of protein-stuff). While it’s important not to neglect Hawaii’s culinary triumvirate — poi (paste made from taro), kalua pork and lomilomi salmon —there is only one hard and fast rule: “Be adventurous,” urges local food writer Joan Namkoong. “If you see something like saimin (an Asian-inspired noodle dish in broth) or Portuguese sausage, try it,” she says. “We love to eat and we love to share our food. It’s all part of the Aloha spirit.” Recommended dishes: plate lunch at the Hawaiian Style Café in Waimea, and saimin at Nori’s Saimin & Snacks in Hilo.

Factoid
Poi is a sacred and essential part of Hawaiian life, but this paste, made from the root of kalo (taro) plant has a practical side too. “If your baby has allergies, it’s a nutritious food that most babies can tolerate,” says food expert Joan Namkoong. 

Insider Tip
At Hilo Farmers Market peruse fresh fruit, such as cherimoyas and rambutans. While there, order a passion fruit drink. The market is open on Wednesdays and Saturdays.

Maui: A Water Escape

Six Places to Get Your Feet Wet
1. Waimoku Falls: This is a 400-foot waterfall off the road to Hana just past mile marker 42. Follow the thunder of wai (fresh water) and walk through a bamboo forest to reach it.

2. Molokini Crater: This crater is three miles off Maui’s southwest coast. Depart from Lahaina or Maalaea for a 45- to 60-minute boat ride to the crater. You might spot humpback whales within moments of leaving shore. Descend beneath the surface to hear the whales’ songs pinging off the crater’s walls.

3. Black Rock: This headland juts out into the sea and divides the beaches of Kahekili and Kaanapali on the west coast. Snorkel here in the morning or late afternoon when the water is calm and the light is good.

4. Maui Ocean Center: Located at Maalaea Harbor in Wailuku, this aquarium and marine science center houses Hawaii’s largest and most varied collection of marine life — everything you see is found in Hawaiian waters.

5. Lahaina, Olowalu and Kihei beaches: Surf on Maui’s south and west coasts; these places are typically better for beginners, and lessons are offered at Cove Park in Kihei and Launiopoko Park in Lahaina.

6. Hookipa, Honolua Bay and Paia. Watch expert surfers here. 

Whale Watch
Every year between December and April several thousand Northern Pacific humpback whales journey to Maui to mate, give birth and care for their young. (Their congregational peak is in mid- to late-February.) Take a whale-watching cruise from Lahaina or Maalaea or watch the whales from shore at Kapalua, Kaanapali, Olowalu or Kihei. www.mvprince.com

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Water Life
Maui’s waters brim with life-forms you won’t see anywhere else: About one-fourth of Hawaii’s inshore fish are endemic, the highest percentage of warm-water, marine-fish endemism on the planet. Snorkel Ulua Beach in Wailea on the island’s south shore to see the variety of species. You might find sea turtles, morays, spotted eagle rays, endemic Hawaiian sergeant fish and the vowel-heavy triggerfish (humuhumunukunukuapuaa). The Pacific Whale Foundation has a naturalist on-site at Ulua from 9 a.m. to 1 p.m., Monday through Friday, to explain what left your mouth agape.

Sea Drink
Enjoy a cocktail straight from the sea. The water distilled in Maui’s Ocean Vodka comes from 3,000 feet below the ocean’s surface, off Hawaii’s coast. Try it at island restaurants or bring a bottle home (from $15). Kahului-based Hawaii Sea Spirits, which bottles the vodka, donates a portion of sales to ocean-friendly organizations. www.oceanvodka.com

Factoid

The Hawaiian word wai (fresh water) is actually the root of the word waiwai, meaning prosperity. In Hawaii’s ancient agricultural society, fresh water was the most precious resource.

Insider Tip
Remote and removed, Koki Beach and Hamoa Beach, two lovely strands preferred by the locals, are located off Haneoo Road just outside of Hana.


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