Welcome to 'Cruising Italian Style'

By Anita Dunham-Potter

Travel columnist

updated 8:51 p.m. ET Feb. 27, 2007

Anita Dunham-Potter Travel columnist • Profile • E-mail

Costa who? That’s the reaction I received when I told friends that I was taking a Caribbean cruise aboard Costa Cruises’ Costa Mediterranea. I had never sailed Costa before and was looking forward to my seven-day Western Caribbean cruise in early January. While Costa is Europe’s biggest cruise line, it is not well known in North America. That’s about to change, however, now that Costa has positioned three of its 12 ships in Caribbean waters for the winter season.

There is no mistaking a Costa ship; they are easily identified by their signature yellow smokestacks, each sporting a giant blue “C.” Once I got in the terminal, I noticed something else different: All the announcements were made in five languages (English, Italian, French, German and Spanish). Clearly, this was going to be a cosmopolitan cruise. Unfortunately, embarkation was a mess and led to some people shouting about the delays to get on board. Several incidents led to the delay, including a late transition of the ship from Miami to Fort Lauderdale and a bomb scare involving a Royal Caribbean ship in Miami. It made for a hectic start.

Palazzo at sea
Once aboard the ship, it was easy to forget the embarkation circus. Mediterranea’s “wow factor” is high, especially in the spectacular atrium, designed by Maschera d'Argento, which rises 10 decks to huge skylights. This is the heart of the ship and a hub of activity encompassing bars, a restaurant and the information and tour desks. High above the ground, bronze sculptures of dancers dressed in old-century costumes present some mysterious revelry in suspended animation. Looking up, it’s like witnessing a surreal masquerade party.

Carrying 2,114 passengers, the 86,000-ton Costa Mediterranea has a layout similar to the Spirit-class vessels of Costa’s parent company Carnival Cruise Lines, but there is no mistaking this ship’s Italian heritage. Its unique personality, which is inspired by 17th- and 18th-century Italian palazzi, is given a vivid contemporary flair courtesy of ship architect Joe Farcus.
While some of the décor is over-the-top, the ambiance remains very traditional. All over the ship you will find interesting paintings, elements of baroque architecture and unusual sculptures; together they add up to a lush, very European elegance. The exquisite glass lighting fixtures crafted by artisans in Venice's Murano glass factories are special standouts. One twist is the Asian-themed Roero Bar and Oriental Lounge, which seems out of place -- until you notice its large Italian water fountain. Despite its elaborately Old World theme, Mediterranea has all of the latest big-ship amenities, including plenty of trendy shops and an Internet cafe.

Staterooms
The focus on Mediterranea is on balcony staterooms; of the 1,057 staterooms, 742 have balconies. Standard balcony and ocean-view cabins are 210 square feet; more spacious digs can be had in one of the ship’s 58 suites, which range from 352 square feet all the way up to 650 square feet. The smaller inside cabins are 160 square feet, and eight cabins (in several categories) are handicap-accessible.

All cabins have a tasteful, golden-hued décor and are outfitted with twin beds that convert to a queen, TV, telephone, hair dryer, safe, mini-fridge, closet and bathroom with shower. Suites have a private sitting area, two TVs, a marble bathroom with regular or whirlpool tub, plush bathrobes and slippers, and butler service. “Grand Suites,” in the back of the ship, have the most amazing wraparound balconies and come equipped with plush-cushioned teak loungers and chairs.

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Before I set sail, I was warned that Costa’s beds are very hard. Fortunately, Mediterranea had been outfitted with brand-new mattresses just the month before, and while mine was not the kind of super-plush mattress you get on other cruise lines touting new bedding, it was very comfortable. All Costa ships will be outfitted with these new mattresses by the end of the year.

One of the neat things about the staterooms is that they have videos about the ship for your viewing enjoyment. One offered a look behind the scenes with various crew members; another showed the ship being built from start to finish. I learned interesting factoids about the Mediterranea. For example, it has 4,300 loud speakers, 220 miles of piping, 1200 miles of cable, and 40,000 lights. Who knew?

Dinner and a pasta show
In addition to the half dozen bars and lounges on board, the ship has three restaurants. The ship’s main dining venue is the visually stunning, two-level Ristorante degli Argentieri, which takes its inspiration from a grand 18th-century palace. There is open seating at breakfast and lunch, and assigned seating (generally at tables of four or eight, in two shifts) at dinner. I was pleasantly surprised to see a large number of tables for two, which is romantico for couples.

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The dinner menus play up Italian fare, with a different region of Italy highlighted each night, and they are accompanied by an excellent selection of wines. As in Italy, a perfectly prepared pasta course is offered before the entree. On my sailing, entrees ranged from excellent to just OK. One evening I had a terrific grilled halibut fillet, but on another night I had overcooked snapper. I found several soups and some appetizers to be on the salty side, but the desserts were scrumptious and creative, and the gelato was to die for. The service was unfailingly excellent: exceptionally prompt, efficient, friendly and courteous.

Perla del Lago, the ship’s casual buffet restaurant, is broken into several serving stations, which are sometimes devoted to different ethnic cuisines; it also houses a pizzeria, pasta station and ice-cream machines. Other more casual venues include two poolside grills offering hot dogs, hamburgers and the like.

Club Medusa, the ship’s $20-per-person, alternative specialty restaurant, was my personal favorite. The two-story venue, located on Deck 10, overlooks the atrium and is accessible by a glass spiral staircase that angles out into the atrium. I found the entrees excellent and well worth the price. Late night, the area converts into a cigar bar.

If you need a big bedtime snack, then you’re on the right ship, for Costa is one of the few cruise lines to still offer a midnight buffet. Each night presents a different theme, and one night you get the over-the-top “Buffet Magnifico,” which is just that.

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