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Coral reefs, clear blue sea, West Indies grub

Relax and enjoy an easy Caribbean getaway in the U.S. Virgin Islands

A small fishing boat sits moored all alone at sunset near Lindburg Bay, St. Thomas, U.S. Virgin Islands. USVI is an easy getaway that may be especially appealing to Americans who don't have passports.
Brennan Linsley / AP
updated 2:53 p.m. ET Jan. 29, 2007

CHARLOTTE AMALIE, U.S. VIRGIN ISLANDS - The 10-seater plane cruised over islets and light blue waters that exposed luminous coral reefs as it headed to our final destination: the U.S. Virgin Islands.

But I knew I was really on that idyllic Caribbean getaway when a friend and I later found ourselves lounging on an almost empty beach ringed by emerald green mountains and staring out at a placid, clear blue bay sipping strawberry daiquiris.

Yep, the life. I had chosen the three-island U.S. territory to celebrate my 32nd birthday. I live in neighboring Puerto Rico and wanted a quick, but peaceful jaunt without the fuss of reading maps, organizing tours and visas - which is exactly what I got. It's also hassle-free for those visiting from the continental U.S., as no passport is needed. (As of Jan. 23, Americans do need a passport to re-enter the U.S. from Caribbean islands other than Puerto Rico and the U.S. Virgin Islands.)

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We stayed at the Galleon House, a guesthouse in Charlotte Amalie, the capitol of St. Thomas.

Our room had a balcony overlooking the tiny streets of the former Danish colony, which are lined with many European colonial-era brick and wood buildings. On the hillside, we could see the governor's residence, a "white house" lit up at night.

The guesthouse was basic but charming. It has a lovely turquoise-colored deck overlooking the hillside, and lush grounds maintained by the friendly groundskeeper, Cornelius Douglas. There was also a big breakfast - but I always missed it because I prefer sleeping in on vacation.

  If You Go

U.S. VIRGIN ISLANDS: 800-372-USVI. Capital: Charlotte Amalie on St. John. Beaches include Sapphire Beach and Magens Bay on St. Thomas, and Honeymoon Beach, Solomon Beach and Caneel Bay on St. John.

U.S. VIRGIN ISLANDS NATIONAL PARK: On St. John

GALLEON HOUSE BED AND BREAKFAST INN: Located in downtown Charlotte Amalie; or 800-524-2052. High season rates range from $83 to $145 nightly.

BLACKBEARD'S CASTLE: A National Historic landmark in Charlotte Amalie, also known as Skytsborg.

CUZZIN'S CARIBBEAN RESTAURANT & BAR: Back Street, Charlotte Amalie, St. Thomas; 340-777-4711. Entrees start at $14.

HERVE RESTAURANT & WINE BAR: Government Hill, downtown Charlotte Amalie, St. Thomas; 340-777-9703. Entrees start at $20. French and American cuisine.

On our first day, we strolled through the downtown, which is a short walk from the guesthouse. There are many duty-free shops selling mostly jewelry that cater to cruise passengers, and a few street hawkers who will try to lure you into their shops - which can be annoying. (Our strategy: ignore them).

Mixed in between are some cool local establishments, such as Beans, Bytes & Websites, which offered coffee from around the Caribbean and snacks, had about a dozen computers with Internet access and carried local newspapers. It was set in a brick building that provided a nice escape from the island sun.

I also took a walk through the residential areas past a monument of the "Fire Burn Queens" -three women who fought for better rights for African workers in the late 1800s, the 17th century Fort Christian and many tropical homes snuggled amid the trees. Blackbeard's Castle, a U.S. National Historic Landmark, was on my route as well. This watchtower dates to 1679, and local lore says the notorious pirate Edward Teach - also known as Blackbeard - used it as a lookout.

But we did not spend a lot of time in town. Our mission: the beach. We took a taxi (a truck mounted with benches) through the extremely hilly island, passing homes sitting on the edge of cliffs, and shuttling through the mangroves to Magens Bay - the strawberry daiquiri locale.

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We rented chairs from a shop that also offered snorkeling gear, and set up near some palm trees. We lazed away the afternoon watching clouds breeze overhead. I dipped my head in the cool waters and paddled around. The only moment that broke the bliss was when a baby nurse shark was spotted just a few feet off shore.

People came running from both ends of the beach. Rather than fear the shark, I worried for the small creature who seemed dazed and confused. It eventually slinked off.


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