Resolve to visit New Orleans in '07

The local neighborhood associations in areas such as Lakeview, Gentilly and Faubourg Tremé have served as catalysts for reconstruction, organizing such fundamental operations as trash and debris removal. But these organizations do not have the funding that is needed to make broader headway, even with the help of local private businesses.

Those who have returned to New Orleans to repair their homes, restart their businesses and reclaim their lives started with an uncharacteristic sense of city unity and civic determination. However, the lack of any kind of coherent plan at the city and state levels is frustrating many of these urban renewal pioneers.

Historically, New Orleans has been seen as a city saddled with a dysfunctional government of warring bureaucratic interests. According to many, this failure to work together and keep the levees repaired, despite record levels of funding, is partly to blame for the enormous damage.

It seems little has changed. Currently, city leaders are not coming to the forefront and are not responding to their citizens, who are clamoring for short-term and longer-term direction. This cannot go on. Planners need to make arrangements to spend the billions of dollars that have already been allocated to the reconstruction fund. Local associations are meeting, making plans and proposals, but when their ideas are passed to City Hall, action comes to a standstill or the projects are sent back to neighborhoods for additional study.

The longer this recovery effort drifts without a rudder, the more difficult it will be to reconstitute the city and begin the transformation of the social fabric that makes New Orleans special. Without some positive action by the city and state leaders, the public unity and single-minded determination that was kindled in the wake of Katrina will be squandered.

Tourism makes a difference
Given the governmental failings, the major impetus for rebirth must come directly from the citizenry. Of course, those people are mired, like people everywhere, in their day-to-day existence — trying to earn a living, get their kids to school, have the car repaired. It is a great challenge that they face, and my hat goes off to them for the almost miraculous effort they have made so far.

Obviously, they cannot do it alone, so when you make your plans for a warmer-weather vacation, think about New Orleans. In fact, make it a New Year’s resolution. The city’s hoteliers, shopkeepers, painters, musicians, chefs, waiters, busboys, taxi drivers, construction crews, truckers and engineers will welcome your contribution to the renovation of their city, and you can become an important part of an historic effort to reconstitute a major metropolis.

Notes: While in New Orleans, I was the guest of the International House, 221 Camp Street, 504-553-9550. The hotel provides understated luxury in the center of the business district only a block and a half from the French Quarter. I also spent nights with friends in various area neighborhoods. I was hosted to a memorable dinner at Restaurant August (301 Tchoupitoulas Street, 504-299-9777), long hailed as one of the best eateries in a city famous for its cuisine. Restaurant August owner and chef John Besh has been recognized as one of the best chefs in the city by the James Beard Foundation and is a leader in the city’s tourism renewal. The table favorites were the crispy pork belly with Belle River crawfish agnolotti, tarragon, asparagus and sweet peas (as an appetizer) and the Moroccan-spiced duck with soft polenta, roasted-duck foie gras and Midol dates (as a main course). The wine list was excellent with both affordable and vintage wines.

Other fine restaurants I visited during my time in New Orleans were the venerable Galatoire’s (209 Bourbon Street, 504-525-2021) for the Friday before Halloween (which is wild if you can get a table), The Bank Café in Marigny (2001 Burgundy, 504-371-5260) for its exceptional mussels and French fries, Port of Call (838 Esplanade, 504-523-0120) for its famous hamburgers, and Luizza’s by the Track (1518 N. Lopez, 504-943-8667) for its renowned gumbo.

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