Explore beyond the shore

Puerto Rico will surprise you. If you think you’re heading to a standard Caribbean isle, where the sights don’t extend far from the sands, the food bland as oatmeal and the pace drowsy, well, you haven’t done your homework. This is a bustling island, circled by highways (often jammed with cars), and while it has lovely beaches, tourism isn’t the only game in town; people here also work in the pharmaceuticals industry, in electronics, textiles and petrochemicals. In a day, you’ll get a jolt of its unique energy, a peek at its history, and still have time to laze on the beach. Hey, you are in the Caribbean after all.

8 a.m. - 9 a.m.: Grab breakfast at your hotel. There’s no point in making a special visit anywhere for this meal.

9 a.m. - noon: Hit the beach. Sandy, powder-white beaches are the island’s claim to fame. If you’re not happy with the one at your hotel, head to Luquillo Beach, about 30 minutes from San Juan. A coral reef hugging the lagoon creates a calm, swimmable surf and serves as a sort of natural aquarium, perfect for snorkeling. Clean facilities—toilets, changing rooms, lockers—are another perk. If you’re planning on visiting El Yunque in the afternoon (see below), you can easily get there from here; instead of returning to San Juan for lunch, simply grab some tacos from the food stands that line the beach.

Morning Alternative
Hit the links. Though Robert Trent Jones’ two courses at the Hyatt Dorado are arguably the most celebrated on the island, they’re also incredibly pricey. Instead, try the Greg Norman course, which has the challenges of a river coursing through its center and the occasional iguana sunning itself in the grass, a refugee from the nearby mangrove swamp. At 6145 feet it’s shorter than the other two mentioned above, but significantly cheaper. You’ll find the Greg Norman course at the Westin Rio Mar.

Noon - 2 p.m.: For lunch, classic comida criolla (or Caribbean cuisine) is on the menu at the Casa Borinquen in Old San Juan. You’ll know it by the famous mural of Puerto Rican activist Don Pedro Abizu Campos, painted in a Saint Sebastian-like pose on the front wall. Don’t let the sight of all those arrows piercing flesh spoil your appetite, as you’re about to be spoiled big time with food fresh from the sea and the garden, perfectly spiced and cooked. Octopus salad, barbecued pork ribs and Mofongo (a luscious combination of ground plantains fried with either pork, chicken or shrimp), and other Puerto Rican specialties, are all lovingly prepared here.

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2 p.m. –7 p.m.: Get lost in Old San Juan, the largest concentration of historic buildings in all the Caribbean (except for Havana). Cobblestone streets, ancient churches and sherbet-colored colonial buildings with elaborate grill work over the windows, all combine to create the illusion that you’ve time traveled back in time some 400 years (if only the darn cars and tacky souvenir stores would disappear, the experience would be near perfect). Include a tour of El Morro, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, to learn about its bloody history (the British and the Dutch had a habit of attacking it every several years, just to poke at the Spanish) and see its dungeons, turrets and lookouts. Finish up with cocktails at El Convento, a former Carmelite convent (built in 1650) with castle-like proportions and more than a dollop of colonial charm.

Afternoon Alternative
Head inland to El Yunque Rainforest. Home to 240 species of wildlife, trees and flowers (26 of which are found nowhere else), it’s a superb hiking destination, and you don’t have to be George of the Jungle to find your way through the trees. Trails are extremely well-marked; in fact you’ll often see small signs with information on the flora and fauna you’ll be passing. Wear a bathing suit with shorts. That way you’ll dry off quickly when it rains—and you will encounter short bursts of rain (you’re in a rainforest after all)—and you’ll be able to take a dip in one of the waterfalls that flank the trails. One, in particular, is terrific for swimming (ask for info at the visitor’s center).

7:30 p.m. - 10 p.m.: Reservations aren’t accepted at Dragonfly, so head there a bit earlier than is cool in this town (between 7 p.m. and 7:30) to avoid the chic hordes who swarm the place come 8:30 p.m. and later. What’s all the fuss about? It has a lot to do with the atmosphere, which is sexy in the extreme, all red lights, hanging drapes and pretty wait staff. But that wouldn’t keep diners’ interest if the food wasn’t topnotch, which it is. A fusion of Caribbean, Latin and Asian flavors with a heavy emphasis on the fresh produce and seafood of Puerto Rico, the menu runs the gamut from tempura to ceviche to Asian pizza with smoked salmon, wasabi and salsa (sounds weird, but it’s delish, just like the rest of the menu).

10 p.m.  - on: There’s nothing old about “Old San Juan” once the sun sets. It becomes a buzzy party spot for 20-somethings (and some folks in their 30’s and 40’s), who hop from bar to bar. The epicenter of all the activity is on the Calle San Sebastian, which is lined on both sides with happening nightspots blaring island music. If you’re not into reggaeton or the pick up scene, gamble the night away at the glitzy El San Juan Resort and Casino.

Pauline Frommer is the creator of the new Pauline Frommer guides in bookstores now.

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