Europe’s traditional ski and snowboard resorts
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Perhaps the king of all traditional Alpine resorts is Zermatt settled in the valley beneath the Matterhorn. Though Zermatt has expanded over the past two decades, they have maintained the look and feel of a humble mountain town. Of course there is nothing humble about it and the hotels are some of the most luxurious in the world. This village is also a car-free with all guests arriving by train and then either walking to their hotel or being whisked through the snow-covered streets by horse-drawn sleigh. The skiing and riding is dramatic with three giant areas looming above the chalets. These descents provide every level of challenge for skiers from beginner to super expert.
Austria is a country that has perfected the fun of skiing and snowboarding. No other country in Europe knows how to enjoy winter on the slopes like the Austrians. Winter at Austria’s resorts is a non-stop party. Virtually every skiers or snowboarder who visits Austria returns exhausted by the partying as well as the extensive skiing.
The grandfather of all Austrian resorts is St. Anton. It has somehow maintained the look and feel of the olden days. A few years ago the town moved the train station behind the town opening the village directly to the slopes. Where the town has definitely spread out over the last decades, the atmosphere has been well preserved. Steep trails drop from the top of the crenulated 9,220-foot-high Valluga peak. The sister resort of St. Christoph is even smaller and quainter. And across the ridge topped by the Valluga lie two other old-world resorts, Lech and Zurs. However, though both of these are isolated, their rustic souls have been surrounded by modern looking hotels.
High in the Oetztal beyond Solden that straddles the highway and up a twisting narrow road above tree line skiers will find Obergurgl a tiny town surrounded by big skiing that time seems to have forgotten. Though a few cars and trucks ply the town lanes, there is virtually no traffic. Stay at the old post and beam Hotel am Hof and take time to dine at the religious setting of Restaurant Dominic with light filtered through stained-glass windows.
Kitzbuhel, at its core, is still a walled medieval town where royal flags and noble banners adorn the streets. It is surrounded by fabulous skiing and riding through lush trees and along a long ski circus that winds its way up the valley then back to the town walls. Kitzbuhel is the site of the Hahnenkamm, one of the premier downhill races of the year. This is also one of the après-ski centers of the world, where the skis come off and the skiers belly up to the bar, then dance in their ski boots until dinner is served. Then they go out for more later in the night, singing and dancing into the wee hours.
France has Europe’s largest interconnected ski areas with the Trois Vallees connecting Courcheval, Meribel, Les Menuires and Val Thorens, the massive areas of Tignes/Val d’Isère and and La Plagne/Les Arc. These trail networks are certainly unmatched, but when it comes to quaintness in the French Alps, one has to search a bit.
Megève still maintains its peaked roofs and wooden chalets and the old world town center complete with steepled church. Tough many hard-core skiers pooh-pooh the skiing and riding, the dining and lodging are some of the best on the continent. And the on-mountain restaurants provide exceptional meals as well.
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