At holy site, even trash holds treasures

By Matti Friedman

updated 5:29 p.m. ET Nov. 17, 2006

JERUSALEM - Off an East Jerusalem side street, between an olive orchard and an abandoned hotel, sit a few piles of stones and dirt that are yielding important insights into Jerusalem’s history.

They come from one of the world’s most disputed holy places — the square in the heart of Jerusalem that is known to Jews as the Temple Mount and to Muslims as the Noble Sanctuary.

The story behind the rubble includes an underground crypt, a maverick college student, a white-bearded archaeologist, thousands of relics spanning millennia and a feud between Israelis and Palestinians which is heavily shaped by ancient history.

Among finds that have emerged are a coin struck during the Jewish revolt against the Romans, arrowheads shot by Babylonian archers and by Roman siege machinery, Christian charms, a 3,300-year-old fragment of Egyptian alabaster, Bronze Age flint instruments, and — the prize discovery — the imprint of a seal possibly linked to a priestly Jewish family mentioned in the Old Testament’s Book of Jeremiah.

And the finds keep coming. On a drizzly November morning, Gabriel Barkay, the veteran biblical archaeologist who runs the dig, sat in a tent near the mounds examining some newly discovered coins stamped by various Holy Land powers: the Hasmonean dynasty of Jewish kings more than 2,000 years ago, a Roman procurator around the time of Pontius Pilate, the early Christians of the Byzantine Empire, two Islamic dynasties and the British in the 20th century.

Considering the wealth of findings, it is odd, perhaps, that this is an excavation that was never supposed to happen.

Rubble removed
Jews revere the Mount as the site of their two ancient temples. Muslims believe it’s where the Prophet Muhammad ascended to heaven during a nighttime journey recounted in the Quran. Two mosques stand on the site, as do some of the temple’s original retaining walls, including the Jewish shrine called the Western Wall, but there is no visible trace of the temple itself.

Zeev Radovan / AP This is the imprint of a clay seal that archaeologists believe belonged to a member of a priestly family mentioned in the Book of Jeremiah, from around the 7th and 6th centuries B.C.

The site has been the frequent arena of Israeli-Palestinian fighting, and its volatility has prevented archaeologists from ever touching it.

In November 1999, the Waqf, the Muslim organization that administers the site’s Islamic holy places, opened an emergency exit to an ancient underground chamber of stone pillars and arches known to Jews as Solomon’s Stables and to Muslims as the Marwani mosque.

Ignoring fierce protest from Israeli archaeologists who said priceless artifacts were being destroyed to erase traces of Jewish history, the Waqf dug a large pit, removed tons of earth and rubble that had been used as landfill and dumped much of it in the nearby Kidron Valley.

The Waqf’s position was, and remains, that the rubble was of recent vintage and without archaeological value.

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