Mark Bittman goes nuts with pecans

Coat the bottom of a wide saucepan with oil, and turn the heat to medium high. When it is hot, but not smoking, add the almonds and cook, stirring occasionally, for just a few minutes, until they are toasted and lightly browned.

Remove the almonds with a slotted spoon, drain on paper towels and sprinkle with cumin, cayenne, and salt to taste. Serve at room temperature, within a few hours.

Toast the nuts in a dry skillet over medium heat, shaking almost constantly, until fragrant. Place them in the container of a blender or small food processor along with the garlic and pulverize.

Put the ground nuts and garlic in a bowl and add the vinegar, salt, and pepper; stir. Add the oil a bit at a time. The mixture will become creamy and quite thick. Taste to make sure the acid balance pleases you and add more vinegar if you like; if the taste is good but the mixture is too thick, add warm water, a teaspoon at a time. This is best made fresh but will keep, refrigerated, for a day or so; bring back to room temperature before using.

Pre-heat the oven to 400°F. If baking the stuffing outside of the bird, grease a 2-quart casserole, large gratin dish, or 9- by 13-inch baking dish with olive oil.

Bring a large pot of water to boil; salt it. Add the rice and simmer, stirring occasionally, until it begins to get tender but not at all mushy, to 15 to 20 minutes. Drain it, rinse it, and drain it again.

Heat 1/4 cup of the oil or butter in a large, deep skillet over medium heat for 2 minutes. Toss in the nuts and the raisins or currants, if you are using them, and stir for a minute or

Add the rice and stir, sprinkling with salt and pepper, while cooking for another minute; the rice need not get hot. Add more oil or butter as needed to moisten the mixture thoroughly. Add the lemon juice and half the herb. Taste and adjust seasoning if necessary.

(You may prepare the recipe in advance up to this point; refrigerate, well wrapped or in a covered container, for up to 2 days before proceeding.)

Use the stuffing to fill both cavities of the bird. Or put the stuffing in the prepared pan, cover tightly with foil and bake until the rice is tender, 25 to 30 minutes. Uncover and bake until the mixture top is nicely browned, another 10 to 15 minutes or so.