Paradise and relaxation await on Aitutaki

updated 3:47 p.m. ET Nov. 10, 2006

This tiny spot in the South Pacific was one of the last places William Bligh, captain of the H.M.S. Bounty, visited before the infamous 1789 mutiny.

Bligh, set adrift along with 18 members of his crew shortly after leaving Aitutaki, later reached Timor and successfully returned to England.

Today, this island paradise is visited more by those living in nearby Australia and New Zealand than Europeans and North Americans, although it's an idyllic vacation spot filled with friendly people and breathtaking scenery.

Traveling to Aitutaki last summer, I spent 11 days on this remote island that sits in the corner of a glistening lagoon surrounded by a handful of smaller islands called "motus." For honeymooners and those looking to get away from it all, Aitutaki provides the perfect haven.

My 17 1/2-hour flight from Los Angeles included transfers in Papeete, Tahiti, and Rarotonga, the island that is home to the Cook Islands' capital city Avarua. I arrived in Aitutaki on a Saturday afternoon in time to experience "Island Night" at one of the local bar/restaurants.

If You Go AITUTAKI, COOK ISLANDS: The Cook Islands Tourism Corp. AIR: Air New Zealand offers roundtrip tickets to Rarotonga, the capital of the Cook Islands, starting at $896 per person from Los Angeles. After passing through customs, you can catch a flight on Air Rarotonga to Aitutaki. The flight, lasting about 45 minutes, starts at $61 one way. ACCOMMODATIONS: Rates at Aitutaki Lagoon Resort & Spa start at $367 and go up to more than $740 for the over-water bungalows per night. Pacific Resort Aitutaki: Internet rates start at $475 a night for a beachfront bungalow (includes airport transfers and breakfast). For those looking for beachfront homes with kitchens, check out http://www.aretamanu.com from $262 and http://www.areamatatui.com from $370. ACTIVITIES: Kayaking: Rent equipment at Samade bar across from the Aitutaki Lagoon Resort & Spa for $13 per day. Lagoon cruise: Kia Orana Cruises offers one of the best and the $40 price also includes lunch. For contact information, ask at your accommodations. WHEN TO GO: Expect mild temperatures year-round. Cyclone season runs from November to March, which is also the height of the Southern Hemisphere's summer and autumn holiday season. There are good warning systems, shelters and security in place here in the event of the occasional storm, similar to what the U.S. East Coast, South and Caribbean have in place during hurricane season. TIPS: Don't forget the $19 departure tax when leaving the Cooks. Bring lots of mosquito repellent (they can be relentless, along with the sand flies). In the water, be on the look out for sea slugs. Not dangerous, they do provide an uncomfortable squish if you accidentally step on one. Visa and Mastercard are widely accepted. Tips are not customary.

The Blue Nun transformed from a barren, open-air hall into a stomping, melodic frenzy featuring an island band and dancers. For around $19, you're treated to an island buffet of barbecue chicken, local fish, poke (a type of gummy, banana pudding) and other treats. Alcoholic drinks were included.

The next day was spent at the Aitutaki Lagoon Resort & Spa, which sits on its own little "motu" about 40 feet across a canal.

You must have permission to cross by boat - either to visit the spa or eat at the Beach Bar and Restaurant. The spa is wonderful, with reasonable rates. A 90-minute massage costs about $56 and is a perfect end to a day in the sun.

With pricey beach bungalows that are the only ones on Aitutaki to sit over water, the resort is one of the most beautiful places on the island.

I spent some time relaxing on the beach in a hammock. Though the beach equipment is technically reserved for hotel guests, no one bothered me.

The prime attraction is the area's access to the lagoon. With sand dunes a short swim from the beach, you can lie in the water or walk across a surprising portion of the lagoon.

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