Experience Carnaval in Rio de Janeiro

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Watching a Rehearsal
Every Saturday from September (or even as early as Aug) until Carnaval, each samba school holds a general samba rehearsal (ensaio) at its home base. The band and key people come out and practice their theme song over and over to perfection. It may sound a tad repetitious, but you'd be amazed how a good band playing the same song over and over can generate a really great party. People dance for hours, taking a break now and then for snacks and beer. The income generated goes towards the group's floats and costumes. By the end of the night (and these rehearsals go until the wee hours) everyone knows the words to the song and has -- hopefully -- turned into an ardent fan who will cheer this particular school on at the parade. (General rehearsals usually don't involve costumes or practicing dance routines.) In December and January, the schools also hold dress rehearsals and technical rehearsals at the Sambodromo. Check with Riotur for dates and times.

Most of the samba schools are based in the poorer and quite distant suburbs, but a number of schools such as Mangueira, Salgueiro, Vila Isabel, and Rocinha are very accessible and no more than an R$30 (US$13) cab ride from Copacabana. Nor should you worry overly much about safety. Rehearsals take place in the warehouse or open-air space where the school builds its floats and sews its costumes. There is always security, and the rehearsals are very well attended. Plan to arrive anytime after 11 p.m. When you are ready to leave there'll be lots of taxis around. Just don't go wandering off into the neighborhood, unless you're familiar with the area. Many hotels will organize tours to the samba school rehearsals, but unless you prefer to go with a group it's not really necessary and certainly a lot cheaper to go on your own.

Tip: A number of the famous schools that are located on the outskirts of the city will hold special rehearsals in the Zona Sul. The ones organized by Beija Flor and Grande Rio are the most popular, often attended by models, actors, and other VIPs. For an authentic experience, it's still better to go to the actual school.

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To find out more about specific schools, rehearsals, or participating in the parade, contact the Liga das Escolas de Samba (tel. 021/2253-7676; www.liesa.com.br). If you can't find anyone there who speaks English, contact Alô Rio for assistance (tel. 021/2542-8080). Or you can try contacting one of the samba schools directly; below you'll find a partial list:

Mangueira (Rio's most favorite samba school and close to downtown), Rua Visconde de Niterói 1072, Mangueira (tel. 021/3872-6786; www.mangueira.com.br).

Beija-flor (far from downtown but a crowd favorite and winner in 2003, 2004, and 2005), Rua Pracinha Walace Paes Leme 1025, Nilópolis (tel. 021/2791-2866).

Imperatriz (the winner in 1999, 2000, and 2001), Rua Prof. Lacê 235, Ramos (tel. 021/2270-8037).

Portela, Rua Clara Nunes 81, Madureira (tel. 021/2489-6440; www.portelaweb.com.br).

Rocinha (young school, located in the Zona Sul close to Ipanema and Leblon), Rua Bertha Lutz 80, São Conrado (tel. 021/3205-3303; www.academicosdarocinha.com.br).

Salgueiro (close to downtown, very popular), Rua Silva Telles 104, Andaraí (tel. 021/2238-5564; www.salgueiro.com.br).

Vila Isabel (close to downtown, mostly locals and very untouristy) Boulevard 28 de Setembro 382, Vila Isabel (tel. 021/3181-4869; www.gresunidosdevilaisabel.com.br).

Hanging with the Blocos
To experience the real street Carnaval, don't miss the parading blocos. The key to the popularity of the blocos is the informality; everyone is welcome, and you don't need a costume, just comfortable clothes and shoes. (Bear in mind, however, that the informality extends to scheduling. If your group doesn't start on time, grab a beer and chill -- they'll show eventually.) Different blocos do have certain styles or attract specific groups, so pick one that suits you and have fun. Riotur publishes an excellent brochure called Bandas, Blocos and Ensaios, available through Alô Rio (tel. 021/2542-8080). Also available from Riotur, Av. Princesa Isabel 183, Copacabana (tel. 021/2217-7563), is the Rio Incomparavel brochure, which has a full listing of events. While traditionally Rio blocos have been free of charge, in recent years a few have picked up on the Salvador practice of charging a small fee and issuing participants a T-shirt to serve as a show of support and a very visible proof of purchase.

Some of the best blocos to look for are Bloco Cacique de Ramos and Cordão do Bola Preta in Centro; Barbas and Bloco de Segunda in Botafogo; Bloco do Bip Bip and Banda Santa Clara in Copacabana; Bloco Meu Bem Volto Já in Leme; and Banda de Ipanema, Banda da Carmen Miranda, and Simpatia é quase amor in Ipanema.