Celtic comfort

The most glamorous component of the spa is also the world’s first: the Precious Stone Cabin, a warm room energetically empowered by an enormous amythest crystal. Designed as a couples’ prelude to hot stone or reflexology massage, the 20-minute session includes crystal reflexology, and sight, sound, aroma, and heat therapy — a recipe for complete rejuvenation.

Sitting in one of two ergonomically designed chairs facing the crystal, I felt the pressure of special gems —in my case, tigereye for lifting the spirits — positioned on the chair along the reflexology points of my back. My other senses were heightened by soothing lavender, the sound of waves, and purple lights, all suggested by my therapist. The combination evoked such inner calm that I practically floated to the treatment room for a ritual sea salt and rosemary mint footbath — a 15-minute prelude to every Aveda treatment. A luxurious walnut shell scrub followed and then a hydrating peppermint foot cream — a heavenly bridge to the 90-minute Fusion Stone Massage scented with lavender, which loosened up some tight muscles — and put me right to sleep.

One rarely wants spa time to end, but you could easily cocoon indefinitely in the dreamy relaxation room at Aghadoe Heights, done in the beige, heather, and green colors of the Irish countryside. There’s a slate wall reminiscent of the McGillicuddy Reeks landscape to heighten the drama, and it’s all cordoned off from the rest of the spa by wood-and-glass screens and silk draping for an intimate cushion of cool. Nestled into a soft Italian relaxation bed with my own Bose stereo with headset, lavender-scented eye pillow, a cup of warm herbal tea, and a plate of fruit, the shimmering silks enveloped the area from floor to ceiling, diffusing the mesmerizing shifts of daylight.

Mountain Highs
Feeling as fluid and relaxed as Aghadoe’s graceful spa, I hit the road again, this time heading north to County Galway. Connemara’s lonely landscape of rivers and lakes, the rugged, beautifully bleak Twelve Bens and Maumturk Mountains, and autumn’s last hues of gorse and heather was spectacular — although after a while, I feared I was lost, passing only the occasional cottage, no cars, and lots of sheep. But the remote location (300 forested acres just one mile from Ireland’s sole fjord) is what’s unique about Delphi Mountain Resort & Spa, a destination spa that combines an understated elegance with a flair for adventure — rock climbing, sea kayaking, canoeing, hiking, cycling, fitness classes, and yoga are all part of the experience. Unlike other hotels that have added spas, Delphi got its start 20 years ago as an adventure center and added the hotel and spa in 2001. An intimate laid-back hideaway for no more than 44 guests at a time, Delphi capitalizes on the serenity of its remote setting as well as its heart-pumping programs.

The resort itself, pieced together like a well-crafted puzzle from indigenous stone and timber, blends into the wild landscape. Sitting cozily beside a peat fire in the library, my lingering traces of road weariness were eclipsed by the views of the Mweelrea Mountains, served through floor-to-ceiling windows. In front of me, a spectacular double rainbow appeared, luring me outside into emerging sunshine and a blue sky splashed with stormy clouds.

Part of personal growth, I’m told, is facing your fears, and one of mine — beyond driving on the left side of the road and sinking into peat bogs — is the fear of heights. So I was somewhat alarmed to find myself walking a tightrope 30 feet above the ground, a requirement of Delphi’s ropes course. Thanks to a harness, two safety lines, and encouragement from my instructor, Tony Hynes, I side-stepped across the rope six inches at time, a death grip on the chest-high safety lines. When I reached the end, I wrapped myself around a 50-foot telephone pole like a koala bear in a tree and mustered up courage for the next part of the course: Walk the Plank, where I would have to jump a three-foot gap between two boards suspended 30 feet in the air. But fate was with me — just then it started pouring and, as the rain turned to sleet, I happily headed back across the tight rope instead.

Grateful to be on the ground and sloshing through mud, I thought it was spa time. It was not. Tony had other plans for me — a challenging encounter with Delphi’s indoor climbing wall. He was absolutely right to push my limits — I would not have experienced the true essence of Delphi without bouncing off a few walls, mountain biking some wild trails, walking to Killary Harbour, or kayaking into sea caves.

As you can imagine, spa time is a well-earned bonus in a setting where stretching muscles and emotional barriers are de rigueur. Delphi’s simple spa is a nurturing, light-filled space of rough stonework, warm woods, and crisp white Irish linens. Here the thermal features — steam and sauna rooms — are all coed. The ten treatment rooms are softly lit with tiny candle bowls and lamps carved from Himalayan salt.

Mulling over a menu of plant- and marine-based treatments, I chose a dried seaweed and sea salt bath in a huge tub with high-pressure rotating water jets and color-therapy lights — a soothing experience except for one jarring cycle through white, when I closed my eyes and found my own inner peace. After some lounging in the glass relaxation area with a heated neck pillow, it was time for my hot stone massage. Placed on the seven main chakras of the body, the smooth water-heated stones brought instant comfort to muscles overworked by climbing, reaching, grasping, and stretching.

Finally at an end, the journey through Ireland was as dramatic and sensual as I’d expected it to be. And facing my fears, impractical or otherwise, brought a sense of satisfaction and justification to the spa indulgence. Heading home, I was reminded of the book, Feel the Fear and Do it Anyway, and I had to agree. Fear is a handicap worth facing — just make sure there’s a great spa nearby.

Spa Magazine  portrays the full-depth of the spa experience and ways to live it every day. Dedicated to providing the information and inspiration needed to pursue health of body and mind, Spa Magazine  presents a contemporary view of spas worldwide. © 2006 World Publications, LLC

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