Go ahead, take the kids to Rome

• The Pantheon
  We discovered the Pantheon on our first day by accident, while in search of the best gelato. This huge round temple was dedicated to all the Roman gods and is considered the best-preserved ancient structure in the city. It was rebuilt in the second century by Emperor Hadrian and has the largest unreinforced concrete dome ever built; 142 feet wide and 142 feet high, it is a perfect sphere, and the walls are 20 feet thick. I stared in awe at this engineering feat for close to half an hour, wondering how they managed it without a crane or backhoe. Sunlight enters the building through a small window in the center of the dome, making the colors in the marble floor come alive. The first king of Italy, Vittorio Emanuele II, is buried here, as is the painter Raphael (my daughter was hoping for Ninja Turtles). Admission is free, but there is usually a moderate wait.

• Spanish Steps and Piazza di Spagna
  These steps and piazza lie at the heart of the shopping district, which includes stores like Fendi, Dolce & Gabanna, Louis Vuitton and my favorite: the Ferrari Store! The Spanish Steps are a great vantage point for watching the life of Rome pass by. Be prepared for crowds — any time of the day or night. Observe the street musicians, vendors, lovers and fellow tourists. The flowers on the steps were in full bloom for our visit and they were a sight to behold. At the base of the steps is a fountain credited to two Berninis (father and son), and John Keats’s house overlooks the steps.

• Trevi Fountain
  This is perhaps the most famous fountain in all of Rome, and it is always thronged with tourists (watch your wallet or purse) re-enacting the tradition introduced by the 1954 film “Three Coins in the Fountain.” Before leaving Rome, you must toss a coin over your left shoulder into the fountain; that way your return is assured. A local told me that a second coin assures you will return with the love of your life. Not sure about the authenticity of that advice — he may have been the coin collector! Even with the crowds, you should get a good view of the mighty god Neptune riding his winged chariot through rushing waters supplied by the ancient Acqua Vergine aqueduct. The fountain is an especially nice treat at night.

• The Bioparco zoo
  Located in Villa Borghese, this zoo is a fantastic place to spend a sunny day in Rome. On our family trips, a zoo visit is always a must. This one did not disappoint. We picnicked by the lake and fed the ducks, swung on the swings, chased down an albino peacock and went nose-to-trunk with an elephant. It was a perfect end to a fantastic trip, and seeing the smiles of kids and adults as they watched the animals was priceless.

• Antico Caffe Grecco is the oldest coffee bar and restaurant in Rome (or so we were told). It is a renowned and historic coffee bar, gelateria and lunch caffe just off the Piazza di Spagna and the Spanish Steps. This was a hangout for Byron, Keats, Goethe, Wagner, Liszt and Joyce, among others. The mazelike interior is decorated in Late Baroque style. Photos of past visitors and dignitaries line the walls (my photo is on order).

Well, there you have it: a quick snapshot of a successful Roman holiday with a 9-year-old in tow. Certainly not the fiasco that the guidebooks made it out to be. Elizabeth is still talking about it and showing off her photos to her friends. If you’d like to take a peek at our trip, check out the photo show.

Oh, and about that quest. After visiting at least three pizzerias and four or five gelaterias each day, Elizabeth and I came up with some clear-cut winners.

In the pizza category, the winner is:

• Pizzeria La Montecarlo
  The alley outside this pizzeria is usually filled with tables occupied by loud Romans — always a good sign when the locals have turned out en masse. The service is faster than it is polite, but the pizzas are great. Elizabeth’s favorite was a plain margareta pizza with fabulous mozzarella and tomatoes. Mine was the special one they make with fresh red peppers and a very unique sausage! Bring cash, because they don’t take any credit cards. Via dei Savelli 13 (near Piazza Navona), Rome.

In the gelato category, it was a very tough choice, but we went with a place that has a U.S. connection, a cousin-operated delicatessen by the same name in my hometown, Annapolis, Md.

• Caffe Giolitti
  The air-conditioned, pink- and green-marbled gelateria screams ice cream. More flavors than you can imagine, and a variety of cones. The chocolate-dipped cone was my favorite with stracciatella, while Elizabeth opted for the basic sugar cone with mocha. The gelateria is always crowded and seemingly always open. Via Uffici del Vicario 40, Rome.

John Frenaye is the president of JVE Group, Inc., a diversified company based in Annapolis, Md. With nearly ten years as a senior executive in the retail travel industry and a background in business management, he writes about the travel industry as an insider with an outsider's perspective. E-mail him or visit his Web site . Want to sound off about one of his columns? Try visiting Frenaye's forum.

MORE FROM FAMILY

Family Section Front

Stress-free Thanksgiving getaways Pet packages for the holidays Best Disney World money-saving tips New Disney coaster lets kids design the ride Disney offers free entry to 1 million volunteers Fantastic family-friendly Caribbean deals Kids welcome in exotic French Polynesia Travelers’ big pet peeve going away Up close and personal at the zoo Tops of the big tops: America’s best circuses Family Section Front   Add Family headlines to your news reader: