Gateway to the West

St. Louis is on the upswing. Approximately $3.5 billion dollars have been lavished on the downtown area over the past decade, with new entertainment districts, parks, condos, posh hotels and restaurants sprouting in their wake. So dramatic has been the transformation that the city caught the eye of the London-based World Leadership Forum, which has made it a finalist (along with Kansas City, Manchester in England and Kolkata, India) for its “urban renewal prize”. The award goes to cities where the leadership has shown “exceptional imagination, foresight or resilience in a number of key fields, especially cities that have reversed trends, shaken off traditional images and acted as an example and inspiration to others.” Does “Gateway City” deserve these plaudits? Is it more livable, and as importantly, visit-worthy, than it was before the massive revitalization of its core? Try the following 24-hour itinerary and judge for yourself.

8 a.m. - 9 a.m.: St. Louis is the 18^th largest city in the US, and has a burgeoning nightlife scene which often winds down at the kitschy Uncle Bill’s Pancake House. But you don’t have to be trying to ward off a hangover at 4 a.m. in the morning to enjoy its fluffy, signature discs. They’re first-rate whether you down them just before dawn or at the civilized hour of 9 a.m., topped with ice cream and hot fudge (their so-called “Alaska” pancakes) or traditionally served with warm maple syrup. Don’t like pancakes? Eggs are another good choice here, made to order and always light and grease-free; for a side, try the thick-cut bacon.

9 a.m. - Noon: It’s odd to think that a city’s biggest claim to fame is that, historically, it served as a gateway to other areas of the country, basically a place to leave. But that’s the case with St. Louis and the city celebrates that role—unironically—with its Gateway Arch. Designed by Eero Saarinen in 1966 as a double tribute to the westward-bound pioneers of the 1800’s and Thomas Jefferson’s Louisiana Purchase, it’s the tallest monument in the US at 160 feet. A tram ride takes visitors to the top of this steel rainbow every four minutes. You’ll learn more about the figures honored by the arch, Lewis and Clark and the other pioneers who explored and then settled the west, at the Museum of Westward Expansion, at the base of the monument. Don’t skip the Oscar-nominated documentary about construction of the arch, that plays on a near-continuous loop at the museum.  An Imax movie theater, also on site, is the last enticement to spend the entire morning here.

MORNING ALTERNATIVE
Is it ever too early for a beer? Well, yes, but not if it caps off a fascinating tour of one of the country’s major breweries. Anheuser Busch established its first brewhouse here in 1892. Today, its 100-acre complex turns out as many as 16 million bottles and cans of beer per week. The factory is located in South St. Louis; you’ll smell the hops long before you ever get there. In addition to touring the brewery, visitors will see Annheuser’s noble team of Clydesdale horses, several of which stand 6 feet tall and weigh almost a ton a piece.

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Noon - 2 p.m.: Tuck into a burger at Blueberry Hill, a memorabilia-packed St. Louis institution renowned for its comfort food. And you’ll dine bathed in the beneficent gaze of classic bluesman Chuck Berry: his memorabilia is everywhere here (the man himself is still going strong at 80 years of age and performs here several times a month), from vintage lunch boxes to brightly colored posters. Outside the restaurant, other great St. Louis citizens are commemorated in a small walk of fame honoring Ulysees S. Grant, Tennessee Williams and Tina Turner, among others.

2 p.m. - 5 p.m.: In 1904, St. Louis was at the center of the world, quite literally, as site of the 1904 World’s Fair. Sixty-two foreign nations sent exhibitions for the event, 1500 buildings (including several palaces) were constructed, and 20 million people visited between April 30 and December 1 of that year. It’s widely considered to have been the greatest world fair ever, and if you need further proof, how about this: it was at this world’s fair that the ice-cream cone and cotton candy were first introduced! You can visit the fair grounds (some of the original buildings are still up), when you head to Forest Park, which is also the site of the city’s top museums. Spend a few hours wandering the halls of the St. Louis Science Museum, the St. Louis Art Museum, or the Missouri Historical Society. Which you pick will depend on your interests; each is bound to impress.

AFTERNOON ALTERNATIVE
Go to church. To the Cathedral Basilica of St. Louis, an odd half Romanesque, half Byzantine structure completed in 1907, that is awash in glittering colors. That’s because the Cathedral boasts the largest number of mosaics in the world, some 4 million pieces of glass used by 20 different artists over the course of 75 years. American saints, biblical figures, scenes from American history—all of these are portrayed on the walls of this one-of-a-kind church. A basement museum explains how the art was created. After you’ve finished viewing the tiles, take in the neighborhood. The Central West End is a delightfully strollable area. Head to the Euclid area and spend the rest of the afternoon wandering in and out of small boutiques and sipping coffee at the various cute cafes here.

5:30-7:30: The cuisine’s a bit old-fashioned and the décor borders on the plain (or you could call it elegantly simple), but if you’re in St. Louis and feel like celebrating that fact, there’s no place like Tony’s. For several generations now, this has been the place where visiting celebs head, where graduations are commemorated and the most important of business dinners are held. The only restaurant in Missouri to have received five diamonds from AAA, it specializes in classic Italian food—rib chops, seafood linguini, ossobucco with risotto—and creates its dishes from the freshest, finest ingredients available. Not to be missed.

7:30-10:30: Make your way to Powell Hall, home to the St. Louis Symphony, the second oldest symphony orchestra in the United States (founded in 1880). Led by conductor David Robertson, it’s considered world class, and is known for its eclectic repertory, including many modern works. The Symphony has been awarded six Grammys over the years.

10:30-on: The night is still young in St. Louis. Head out to hear some blues, either at Blueberry Hill (see above) or at one of the other hopping clubs in town, including BB’s Jazz, Blues and Soups or The Beale on Broadway. Those not into music can head to the President's Casino, set aboard a classic 1907 riverboat moored at Laclede’s Landing. (You’ll also find a number of happening bars and music clubs at the landing as well).

Pauline Frommer is the creator of the new Pauline Frommer guides in bookstores now.

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