Marvel in Memphis

Barbecue, blues and blue suede shoes—these are the soul of Memphis, where the beat never stops, Elvis is still the King, and the grub’s as finger lickin’ as it comes. With the following itinerary you’ll get a taste of the city’s biggest draws, and its serious side as well.

8 a.m - 9 a.m: Country-style breakfasts in the midst of the big city—that’s Blue Plate Restaurant’s claim to fame, and though it’s simple food it’s perfectly done. Pancakes as light as the morning air, similarly fluffy omelets, honest slabs of salty fried ham, and crusty biscuits smothered in voluptuous cream gravy that’s studded with bits of sausage (yum, yum). This locals’ favorite has now branched out into a small chain and once you eat here, you’ll understand why.

9 a.m. - noon: You know where you gotta go next: to Graceland of course, to pay your respects to “The King”. Elvis’ complex is the second most visited home in the United States after the White House, and it should be seen—it’s that iconic (and how are you going to face the folks at home admitting that you didn’t visit while in town?) Touring the entire shebang will take two to three hours as there’s actually a lot to view from the memorabilia-rich Sincerely Elvis Museum to his collection of cars (including that famous 1955 Pink Caddy) to his planes and gravesite. The highlight for most is the tour of the sprawling mansion itself, with its tiki-tinged jungle room, its cushy basement poolroom, and more, all restored to look like it did when Pricilla and Elvis were in residence. Be sure to call for advance reservations as lines can be epic.

MORNING ALTERNATIVE

If you enjoy culture more than pop culture, drop in to the Dixon Gallery and Gardens. Once the private home of art collectors Margaret and Hugo Dixon, it’s a treasure trove of Impressionist and Post-Impressionist art with works by Matisse, Degas, Gauguin, Renoir and others. When the weather is nice be sure to save time for a tour of the glorious gardens here, as artfully designed as anything in the museum itself.

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Noon - 2 p.m.: When The King was in the mood for that classic Memphis dish, the “Pig Sandwich”, he headed to Leonard’s and you should, too. Appropriately enough it was here that another king, the king of the BBQ pit, original owner Leonard Heuberger, created the dish. And though you can get into a fist fight for claiming this, most think Leonard’s still has the best rendition of it in town. Gloriously messy, the shredded pork is topped with a crisp, mustardy coleslaw that off-sets perfectly the gooey sweetness of the barbecue sauce. Try it, you’ll love it…though don’t wear anything you care too much about it as it’s impossible not to spill.

2 p.m. - 5 p.m.: Beyond the music, Memphis has been the staging ground for a number of important, sometimes tragic events in the history of the Civil Rights Movement. It was here after all that Dr. Martin Luther King was cut down in the prime of his life by James Earl Ray. His assassination occurred at the Lorraine Motel and in an inspiring  turn-around, the site of this nefarious act was rehabilitated to create the National Civil Rights Museum. The tale of King’s life is told here, as is that of the movement itself both before and after King’s death. An $11 million renovation was recently completed and has allowed the museum to expand its focus to human rights movements around the world.

AFTERNOON ALTERNATIVE

Can’t get enough of the history of music? Complement your trip to Graceland with a stop at the Memphis Rock ‘N Soul Museum, a Smithsonian institution. As much an aural experience as a visual one, you’ll see photos of all the early greats in these genres while being guided through the exhibit via digital audio tour, which peppers the commentary with more than 100 songs. Rare artifacts, instruments and exhibits on the social impact of the music are also featured.

6 p.m. - 8 p.m.: A gourmet dinner awaits at one of Memphis’ newest hot spots, Wally Joe’s, the brainchild of the well-known Mississippi chef of the same name. Joe imports the finest ingredients from around the world—Australian sea bass, Michigan elk loin, Maine divers scallops—to create a gourmet American menu with Asian accents. It’s a terribly chic place, and the food can be astonishingly good. Make your reservations far in advance.

8 p.m. - on … Head to Beale Street. On the street and in the clubs, there’s music, music and more music. In fact, whatever flavor of sound you best enjoy, you’ll find it represented on this famous street as its half a dozen or so major clubs host musicians of all stripes: blues, rock, soul…there’s even a venue for Broadway musicals and opera. At the Center for Southern Folklore, near Beale Street, for example, you might here a great old banjo player, or some other authentic “roots” music star; at BB Kings you’ll hear the best blues musicians in the country. Pick up a local paper to see who’s playing--you’re guaranteed to find something great to listen to.  

Pauline Frommer is the creator of the new Pauline Frommer guides in bookstores now.

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