Noble retreats

In warm weather, modern British cuisine — such as monkfish with vine tomatoes and Le Puy lentils with organic and (whenever possible) locally sourced fish, meats and produce — is served on the terrace, onto which inquisitive ducks wander at will. I’d heard that Babington has showbiz associations and was concerned it might be poseur-central. However, it is surprisingly family friendly, offering baby massage at the spa and special children’s hours in the outdoor heated pool. Meanwhile, the rest of us can take advantage of the five tennis courts or fitness classes ranging from self-defense to yoga.

A similar blend of rural tranquility and metropolitan finesse characterizes Cowley Manor, 90 minutes north of London in a particularly lovely part of the Cotswolds. On seeing the building’s exterior (modeled on the Villa Borghese), I expected chintz and Chippendale, which made the cutting-edge style of the interior a complete surprise. The contemporary furniture in the public rooms is upholstered in bright shades of chartreuse and turquoise, and the spacious wood-paneled bar makes a postmodern statement on country house tradition with an assortment of papier-mâché animal heads mounted on the walls. There is a billiard room, but this definitely isn’t Gosford Park; the table felt is bright blue and the walls are upholstered in leather.

After a previous owner ripped the original features out of the house, it was given over to a variety of institutional uses, leaving the current owners a blank slate. They took the opportunity to create 15 guestrooms in the main house (there are an additional 15 in the converted stable block) that are the size of suites. Even the bathrooms are spacious, especially the huge (five-foot long, at least) cobalt blue walk-in showers. If a visit to Babington is like staying with a young, hip family blessed with money and taste, a weekend at Cowley is like staying with a fashionable friend whose city residence is a fabulous loft.

The design highlight of Cowley is its architecturally distinguished C-Side spa. Built inconspicuously into the side of a hill, and with a lavender-covered roof, the modern building could easily pass for a small museum. Indoors, the slate-tiled infinity pool is especially beautiful, enclosed by double-height glass walls on three sides and natural rock on the other. Like the smaller outdoor pool, it’s heated to 78 degrees, making it ideal for spring bathing. The treatments in the spa’s four rooms include aromatherapist Michelle Roques-O’Neil’s plant-based oils, offering a range of blends to suit your mood. So, for example, you might choose Stillness oil to relieve tension or Meditation oil to aid focus.

Cowley’s biggest attraction is undoubtedly its 55 acres of beautifully landscaped grounds. Designed to reflect a Victorian fondness for romantic nature (it comes complete with hidden groves and secret gardens), the park has more than one thousand trees including majestic oaks and massive evergreens. Although the spa was a total delight, I found that taking in this view of water and woods while swooping over it on a wooden swing tied to a high branch was as restoring to my spirit as any treatment could be. There is a diversity of landscape to explore, ranging from groomed walking trails in the woods to grand displays, such as a lake ornamented with cascades pouring from the mouths of stone lions. In addition to a small church on the property that has remained virtually unchanged since it was built in the 13th century, there are many sites of cultural interest nearby including Gloucester Cathedral; the Regency spa town of Cheltenham; and Stanton, a picture-book Cotswold village.

As with Cowley, Whatley Manor’s appearance is deceptive. At first glance, the handmade Persian rugs, wood-paneled public rooms, mullioned windows and location in the heart of England’s horse country (Prince Charles’ country house is nearby) suggested a more traditional experience — but then subtle differences emerged. The structure was built in the 1920s, so the 15 rooms and eight suites are more spacious than in older manors. There are also up-to-the-minute Philippe Starck– designed bathrooms and Bang & Olufsen electronics in the bedrooms. And the service is more European than British in its slightly formal but extremely solicitous attentiveness, a reflection of the hotel’s Swiss ownership. At Cowley, I sometimes had trouble spotting the staff, whose uniform of T-shirts and khakis makes them blend in easily among the guests. But at Whatley, by contrast, I was greeted by a manager in frock coat and trousers and immediately felt enveloped in an air of sedate luxury.

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