Nigella Lawson serves up more comfort foods

Put a large pan of salted water on to boil for the pasta. Cut the pancetta into half inch x quarter-inch cubes. If the pancetta has its rind on, cut if off — and use a bigger piece of pancetta, as the amount I’ve specified is for the prepared cubes — and put the rind in a pan with a film of oil and cook it gently to render down.

Then in a large pan that will fit the pasta later, cook the pancetta cubes in the oil until crispy but not crunchy. Chuck over them the white wine or vermouth and let it bubble away so that, after a few minutes, you have a small amount of salty winey syrup left. Take the pan off the heat.

In a bowl, beat together the eggs, Parmesan, cream and some pepper. Cook the pasta more or less according to the packet instructions, but since you want it kept al dente start checking it 2 minutes before the package says it’s done. Lower in a cup and remove approximately half cup of the pasta water before draining. Put the other pan, the one with the bacon cubes, on the heat and add the drained pasta, tossing well to coat with the syrupy pancetta. Add a little of the reserved pasta water to lubricate if necessary. Take the pan off the heat again and add the eggs and cheese mixture, swiftly tossing everything to mix. Grind over some more pepper and grate over the nutmeg, carry proudly aloft, and dive in.

Slice the scallions finely, and cook them in the butter and oil until soft. Shred the lettuce and stir into the scallion, and when it’s wilted add the frozen peas and stock.
Cook at a robust simmer, uncovered, until everything is tender and the liquid flavourful and reduced.

Put the sugar, syrup and butter in a pan and slowly bring to the boil, allowing the butter to melt and the sugar to dissolve. Let the mixture bubble for a couple of minutes before adding the cream. Cook for another 2 to 3 minutes or until the sauce is thick and sticky and glossy.

Preheat the oven to 400°F and fill a muffin tray with paper cups.
Measure out the dry ingredients into a large bowl. Pour all the liquid ingredients into a measuring cup. Mix both together, remembering that a lumpy batter makes the best muffins (although my children always over-mix as they argue whose turn it is to stir next) then spoon into waiting muffin cups. Sprinkle more chocolate chips on top then cook for 20 minutes or until the muffins are dark, risen and springy.