A walking tour of Seattle

updated 5:24 p.m. ET Sept. 25, 2006

Fun, Funky Fremont

Start: South end of Fremont Bridge, near Ponti restaurant.

Finish: North end of Fremont Bridge.

Time: Approximately 2 hours, not including time spent dining.

Best Times: Sunday, during the Fremont Sunday Market.

Worst Times: Early morning or evening, when shops are closed.

The Fremont District definitely marches to the beat of a different drummer. Styling itself the Republic of Fremont and the center of the universe, this small, tight-knit community is the most eclectic neighborhood in the city. It has taken as its motto De Libertas Quirkas, which, roughly translated, means "free to be peculiar." Fremont residents have focused on art as a way to draw the community together, and in so doing, they've created a corner of the city where silliness reigns. At this crossroads business district, you find unusual outdoor art, the Fremont Sunday Market (a European-style flea market), several vintage-clothing and furniture stores, a couple of pubs, and many other unexpected and unusual shops, galleries, and cafes. During the summer, outdoor movies are shown on Saturday nights, and in June there's the wacky Solstice Parade, a countercultural promenade of giant puppets, wizards, fairies, naked bicyclists, and hippies of all ages.

Start your tour by finding a parking spot around the corner from Ponti restaurant, at the south end of the:

1. Fremont Bridge

This is one of the busiest drawbridges in the United States and spans the Lake Washington Ship Canal. WELCOME TO THE CENTER OF THE UNIVERSE, reads the sign at the south end of the bridge.

As you approach the north side of the bridge, glance up; in the window of the bridge-tender's tower (on the west side of the bridge) you'll see:

2. Rapunzel

This is a neon sculpture of the famous fairy-tale maiden with the prodigious mane. Her neon tresses cascade down the wall of the tower.

On your immediate right, the big modern building crowding up against the bridge is world headquarters for software giant:

3. Adobe

This is the Adobe of Acrobat, Illustrator, and Photoshop fame. Adobe's move into the neighborhood several years ago signaled a big change for Fremont. In the past few years, this district has changed considerably and is, unfortunately, rapidly losing much of its appealing funkiness.

As you finally land in the Republic of Fremont, you will see, at the end of the bridge on the opposite side of the street from Rapunzel, Seattle's most beloved public sculpture:

4. Waiting for the Interurban

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This piece features several people waiting for the trolley that no longer runs between Fremont and downtown Seattle. These statues are frequently dressed up by local residents, with costumes changing regularly.

Cross to the far side of 34th Street and walk east along this street past some of Fremont's interesting shops, including:

5. Portage Bay Goods

This store, at 706 N. 34th St. (tel. 206/547-5221), sells an eclectic array of things that "enrich the soul, support the community, and preserve the environment." Check out the notebooks made from old computer boards.

A few doors down, you'll find:

6. History House

This neighborhood museum of history, at 790 N. 34th St. (tel. 206/675-8875), is complete with modern interactive exhibits and a beautiful artistic fence out front.

Turn left at History House and head uphill underneath the Aurora Bridge, which towers high above. At the top of the hill, you will see, lurking in the shadows beneath the bridge, the:

7. Fremont Troll

This massive monster is in the process of crushing a real Volkswagen Beetle. No need to run in fear, though, as a wizard seems to have put a spell on the troll and turned it into cement.

Turn left at the troll and walk a block down North 36th Street; then turn left on Fremont Avenue North, and continue another block to the corner of Fremont Avenue North and North 35th Street, where, a few doors from the corner, is:

8. Frank & Dunya

This shop, at 3418 Fremont Ave. N. (tel. 206/547-6760), sells colorful household decor, including switch plates, cups and saucers, mirrors, jewelry, art, rustic furniture, and little shrines. It's all very playful.

Go back up to the corner and cross North Fremont Avenue to the traffic island, where you'll find both the center of the center of the universe and Fremont's:

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