Best bets for a place to stay in Madrid

Best Historic Hotel: Inaugurated by Alfonso XIII in 1910, the Ritz (tel. 800/225-5843 in the U.S., or 91-701-67-67), the gathering place of Madrid society, is still the capital's leading luxury choice. This Edwardian hotel is mellower than ever before, the old haughtiness of former management gone with the wind -- it long ago rescinded its policy of not allowing movie stars as guests. Note: In summer a tie is no longer obligatory and dress tends to be more informal (though the hotel still draws the line at shorts). The rich and famous continue to parade through its portals; today in the lobby you're likely to encounter nearly anyone, from the secretary-general of NATO to Paloma Picasso.

Best for Business Travelers: The concierge at the Park Hyatt Villa Magna (tel. 800/223-1234 in the U.S., or 91-587-12-34) is one of the most skillful in Madrid, well versed in procuring virtually anything a traveler could conceivably need during a trip to the Spanish capital. One floor below lobby level, this five-star hotel's business center is well stocked with access to translators, word processors, scanners, fax machines, photocopiers, and even a well-informed technology concierge. There's a branch of Hertz car rental on the premises, and enough stylish conference rooms (staffed with butlers and stocked with caviar if the nature of your business meeting calls for it) to provide a place for any sales or executive meeting.

Best for a Romantic Getaway: The Santo Mauro Hotel (tel. 91-319-69-00) opened in 1991 in a villa designed by a French architect and built in 1894 for the duke of Santo Mauro. As a sign of the times, more recent visitors have included Julia Roberts and Richard Gere. The lavish property has an ageless grace, although it has been brought up to a state-of-the-art condition. In good weather guests retreat to a beautiful garden pavilion and enjoy many facilities such as a gym and indoor pool. It's resortlike in nature, although situated in Madrid. If you can afford it, go for one of the suites with a fireplace.

Best Fashionable Hotel: A former rundown apartment house, the Hotel Villa Real (tel. 91-420-37-67) has blossomed into a fashionable address, opposite the Cortes and next to the Palace Hotel. A member of the famed Catalan owned Derby chain, this is a 19th-century building of classic French architecture. The marble bathrooms are extremely stylish and Roman mosaics are a special feature in many rooms -- fine views have earned it the name "Balcony of the Retiro." Some of the town's most important movers and shakers can be found in the cocktail bar. A chic rendezvous patronized by the cognoscenti of Spain, it's where you'd invite the duchess of Alba for tea.

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Best Hotel Lobby for Pretending You're Rich: The Westin Palace Hotel (tel. 800/325-3535 in the U.S., 800/325-3589 in Canada, or 91-360-80-00), between the Prado and the Cortes, is a Victorian wedding cake of a place. To sit and people-watch in this lobby -- the grandest Belle Epoque lobby in Madrid -- is to be at the epicenter of Spanish political life. Head for the dazzling stained-glass cupola of the main rotunda lounge, and take in the fanciful ceiling frescoes and the custom-made carpets along the way.

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