Best bets for dining in Madrid

updated 2:26 p.m. ET Sept. 18, 2006

Best for a Romantic Dinner: El Amparo (tel. 91-431-64-56) sits in one of Madrid's most elegant enclaves, with cascading vines on its facade. You can dine grandly on nouveau Basque cuisine, enjoying not only the romantic ambience but also some of the finest food in the city. A sloping skylight bathes the interior with sunlight during the day, and at night lanterns cast soft, flattering glows, making you and your date look luscious.

Best for a Business Lunch: For decades the influential leaders of Madrid have come to Jockey (tel. 91-319-24-35) to combine power lunches with one of the true gastronomic experiences in Madrid. In spite of increased competition, Jockey is still among the favorite rendezvous sites for heads of state, international celebrities, and diplomats. It's the perfect place to close that business deal with your Spanish partner -- he or she will be impressed with your selection.

Best for a Celebration: At night the whole area around Plaza Mayor becomes one giant Spanish fiesta, with singers, guitar players, and bands of roving students serenading for their sangria and tapas money. Since 1884 it has always been party night at Los Galayos (tel. 91-366-30-28) too, with tables and chairs set out on the sidewalk for people-watching. The food's good as well -- everything from suckling pig to roast lamb. What else would you expect from the best eating spot in the Plaza Mayor?

Best View: The cafe tables on the terrace of the Café de Oriente (tel. 91-541-39-74) afford one of the most panoramic views of classical buildings and monuments in Madrid -- a view that takes in everything from the Palacio Real (Royal Palace) to the Teatro Real. Diplomats, even royalty, have patronized this place, known for its good food and attractive Belle Epoque decor, which includes banquettes and regal paneling.

Best Decor: Las Cuatro Estaciones (tel. 91-553-63-05) has the most spectacular floral displays in Madrid. These flowers, naturally, change with the seasons, so you never know what you'll see when you arrive to dine. The entrance might be filled with hydrangeas, chrysanthemums, or poinsettias. The food is equally superb, a magnificent blend of classical and modern, but it's the stunningly modern and inviting decor that makes Las Cuatro Estaciones the perfect place for a lavish dinner on the town.

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Best for Kids: Foster's Hollywood (tel. 91-564-63-08) wins almost hands-down. Since 1971 it has lured kids with Tex-Mex selections, one of the juiciest hamburgers in town, and what a New York Times reporter found to be "probably the best onion rings in the world." The atmosphere is fun too, evoking a movie studio with props.

Best Basque Cuisine: Some food critics regard Zalacaín (tel. 91-561-48-40) as the best restaurant in Madrid. Its name comes from Pío Baroja's 1909 novel, Zalacaín El Aventurero, but its cuisine comes straight from heaven. When the maitre d' suggests a main dish of cheeks of hake, you might turn away in horror -- until you try it. Whatever is served here is sure to be among the finest food you'll taste in Spain -- all the foie gras and truffles you desire, but many innovative dishes to tempt the palate as well.

Best American Cuisine: Not everything on the menu at La Gamella (tel. 91-532-45-09) is American, but what there is here is choice, inspired by California. Owner Dick Stephens, a former choreographer, now runs this prestigious restaurant in the house where the Spanish philosopher Ortega y Gasset was born. Even the king and queen of Spain have tasted the savory fare, which includes everything from an all-American cheesecake to a Caesar salad with strips of marinated anchovies. It's also known for serving what one food critic called, "the only edible hamburger in Madrid," and that palate had tasted the hamburger at Foster's Hollywood. Its wine list is comprehensive, covering a wide range of national and world vintages.

Best Continental Cuisine: Although the chef at the small but enchanting El Mentidero de la Villa (tel. 91-308-12-85) roams the world for culinary inspirations, much of the cookery is firmly rooted in French cuisine. Continental favorites are updated here and given new twists and flavors, sometimes betraying a Japanese influence. From France come the most perfect noisettes of veal (flavored with fresh tarragon) that you're likely to be served in Spain. Even the Spanish dishes have been brought up-to-date and are lighter and subtler in flavor.

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