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A contrarian trip to Europe
Architect Frank O. Gehry’s design for the Guggenheim Museum Bilbao is sheer genius. Interconnecting blocks of limestone run down on one side to the banks of the Nervión River, which lies 16 meters below the city of Bilbao. Many of the building’s astonishing sweeps and curves are encased in titanium, but glass curtain walls allow light to shimmer through to the inside. The 19 exhibition galleries occupy three levels arranged around a central atrium; they are connected by a system of curving walkways suspended from the roof. The interior space has been described as a “metaphorical city” and as “a city within a city,” where architectural design is taken to its most extreme limits. As I wandered through the museum enjoying the artwork, I was amazed by the curvy sometimes-passive, sometimes-interactive nature of the building’s architectural design.
From Bilbao I headed back to Barcelona by way of Pamplona, the Spanish city notorious for its annual “Running of the Bulls.” I arrived two days after the official event but found the city to be a worthwhile stop nonetheless. Meandering among the small streets without the threat of a bull horning down at me is more to my tastes anyway (see Contrarian Strategy #4). The half-mile route winding through town from a corral on Santo Domingo Street to the city’s bullring is filled with charming restaurants, cafes and residences above the ground-level businesses.
The drive from Pamplona to Barcelona took me through northern Spain along an excellent autopista, or highway, traversing a landscape that ranges from highlands to desert to mountains. The BMW was a dream machine, and I was in heaven the whole way. (Contrarian Strategy #5: Spend your money on experiences that matter to you.)
In four hours I was back in Barcelona, the third city on my must-see list. If you have not already visited this young, alive, multicultural, European city with a Catalan flair, you’re missing a true delight. If you have been there before, as I have, there are many new adventures, restaurants, cafes, shopping and beaches to explore.
I stayed at the Hotel Palace, Barcelona, an early 20th-century building with the grace and charm of that era. It’s ideally located along a tree-lined street close to the popular Ramblas area of the city, which is full of restaurants, shops and cafes. The hotel is currently undergoing renovations, so the rates are below market for a property of this quality. (Contrarian Strategy #6: Look for luxury hotel properties under new ownership or renovation, but avoid booking during reopening festivities, when prices go up.)
If Europe is calling you, try to think past the pricey cites of Rome, Paris and London. Explore some less-traveled places and apply some contrarian strategies. You’ll not only be happy with the money you save, you’ll also find welcoming hoteliers and budget-friendly prices. You might even have breakfast with someone famous.
Joel Widzer is an expert on loyalty and frequent flier programs. He is the author of "The Penny Pincher's Passport to Luxury Travel," a guidebook on traveling in high style at budget-friendly prices. E-mail him or visit his Web site.
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