A contrarian trip to Europe

By Joel Widzer

Travel columnist

updated 4:55 p.m. ET Aug. 29, 2006

Joel Widzer Travel columnist • Profile • E-mail

Europe has not been on my list of top travel destinations this year, mainly because of the unfavorable exchange rate. My theory of “contrarian travel” generally takes me to places offering better value but, like many travelers, I sometimes yearn for Europe’s beautiful cathedrals, quaint towns, charming cafes and culinary delights.

So I went back to Europe this summer, and I managed to find some good values by following some of my own advice, strategies that I first outlined in my book “The Penny Pincher’s Passport to Luxury Travel”.

Contrarian Strategy #1: Look for out-of-the-way destinations that are not overrun with seasonal tourists. Often these are the very places offering low airfares. This was the case for my first stop: Barcelona. I choose Barcelona because the flights from Orange County were reasonably priced, and I had plenty of upgrades (Contrarian Strategy #2: Use your frequent-flier miles and loyalty points). Upon arriving in Spain, I rented a BMW 3 series for 92 euros — not the cheapest rate but it was a new car and Hertz has a reputation for quality. Moreover, the car came equipped with Hertz’s “NeverLost” GPS system, which would allow me to travel to many out-of-the-way places in confidence.

I headed out immediately, intending to enjoy Barcelona on the return trip. A six-hour drive took me to Geneva and my wonderful hotel, the Four Seasons Hotel des Bergues Geneva. The hotel, which sits on the southwestern shore of Lake Geneva, has views of Mont Blanc and offers special bed-and-breakfast packages along with a fourth-night-free promotion. (Contrarian Strategy #3: By combining frequent-guest points with a special promotion, you can get a better deal. I enjoyed a luxurious room overlooking the lake.)

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Geneva has the flair of Paris without the expense. The city played a pivotal role in shaping Europe for centuries, especially during the Reformation; it was Rousseau’s birthplace and Voltaire’s refuge. Today Geneva is an important banking and watch-making center and serves as the European headquarters of the United Nations. It is also a pretty city, with enchanting quays, lakeside promenades, leafy parks and a lively Old Town. There are many fashionable stores and art galleries, more than 30 museums, several theaters and an opera house, gourmet restaurants and a dynamic nightlife.

My favorite museum in Geneva was the Patek Philippe Museum. I collect Patek Philippe watches, and it was a thrill for me to see the history of this brand unfold before my eyes. (Contrarian Strategy #4: Skip the “must-see” sights that you couldn’t care less about, and do something you really like.)

From Geneva, I took a marathon drive to Bilbao, Spain: 1,100 kilometers in roughly nine hours. I drove nonstop because I was short on time, but if you are traveling at a more leisurely pace, I recommend spending a day or two in either Toulouse or Bordeaux, both beautiful regions in the interior of France offering charming settings, wine and good dining.

I went to Bilbao to experience the ultramodern Guggenheim Museum. Happily, the prices weren’t bad. I stayed at the five-star Gran Hotel Domine Bilbao, a Silken hotel. My room overlooking the museum included breakfast for only 120 euros a night. The service was superb, and the hotel’s teakwood-paved terrace offered outstanding views of the museum and surrounding hills. It was also the “in place” to have breakfast. I happened to be in Bilbao during its inaugural Bilbao Music Festival, so I ate breakfast with band members from Cheap Trick and Guns N’ Roses, who were also staying at the hotel.

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