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TASTING NOTES
We tasted nearly 30 pinot gris from Oregon, California, Washington and New Zealand, along with a few from Alsace for reference. Oregon held its own, but we had contenders from all corners. Here are eight that show beautiful fruit and bright lines.

Van Duzer 2005 estate pinot gris Willamette Valley ($17): From one of Oregon’s rising stars, this is pretty and dynamic, with slightly opulent aromas — acacia and orange blossom. It’s a wine with stuffing, pillow-soft on the tongue but with a precise definition and a juicy, clean finish.

O’Reilly’s 2005 pinot gris Oregon ($15): Spot on example of Oregon’s style. Focused and just a bit sweet, with warm apple, cinnamon and a bit of spice at the end. Oregon’s David O'Reilly makes consistently good wine, and this is still more proof.

Morgan 2005 pinot gris Santa Lucia Highlands Franscioni Vineyard ($18): From one of the most dynamic winegrowing areas of California’s Monterey. Leathery white fruit on the nose. A bit drier than some, with a crisp ending and a luscious nuttiness at its core. Holds on to your palate at the end with a compelling firmness.

Okanogan Estate & Vineyards 2004 pinot grigio Blue Lake Vineyard ($13): From a winery in Washington’s Okanogan Valley, near the Canadian border. Slightly funky nose, but then there's clear apple, melon and lemon, with a delicate clay-line mineral underpinning. Finishes clean and pretty, and we’ll forgive its “grigio” designation, which it hardly resembles.

Foris 2005 pinot gris Rogue Valley ($14): Another one with curious origins, this time from southern Oregon’s Rogue Valley, almost in California. Slightly overripe apple and apricot, but it's tight and tart, with a gripping, stoic minerality on the end. A bit big (13.9 percent alcohol), but holds its own.

Elk Cove 2005 pinot gris Willamette Valley ($17): Teeming with ripe fruit and a slight low-tide scent. There’s a faint sweetness that keeps growing into a zingy finish. Balanced and pleasing, though ends a touch on the sweet side.

Amisfield 2005 pinot gris Central Otago (Pasternak Wine Imports, $20): From New Zealand’s South Island, this can be a bit overbearing at times, but with strong blossom notes and pretty tree fruit. The flavors get more focused as you drink, and it finishes with an enduring firmness. On the dry side, with a lot of verve and versatility.

Benton-Lane 2005 pinot gris Willamette Valley ($16): A vibrant, slightly buttery nature, with scents of Meyer lemon, apple, pear and almond. Perfumed, with a juicy, balanced finish.

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