Frommer's on foot in Philly

updated 2:36 p.m. ET Aug. 28, 2006

Old City

Start: Welcome Park, 2nd and Walnut streets.

Finish: Market Place East, 7th and Market streets.

Time: From 3 to 5 hours.

Best Time: Start no later than 3pm to avoid museum closings. If contemporary art and socializing is your interest, the first Friday of every month brings special late hours for all galleries, cafes, and many historic attractions.

Worst Time: Afternoons.

Old City is an intriguing blend of 17th- and 18th-century artisan row houses, robust 19th-century warehouses and commercial structures, and 20th-century rehabs of all of the above featuring artist lofts and galleries. Many of the cast-iron and brick buildings are being carefully restored and preserved; even if they are modern condos outside, their facades retain a sense of history.

Across from the narrow lane adjoining City Tavern, on 2nd Street, near Walnut Street, is:

1. Welcome Park

This is the site of the Slate Roof House, where William Penn granted the "Charter of Privileges" (now at the Library Hall off Independence Square) in 1701. The pavement bears a massive and whimsical map of Penn's City, with a timeline of his life on the walls.

Next door is the Thomas Bond House, a restored 1769 Georgian row house that's now a bed-and-breakfast.

Walk along the block-long Ritz East cinema to:

2. Front Street

Front Street actually butted up to the river's edge in Colonial times. A walk north brings you past Warmdaddy's and La Famiglia restaurants, and the possibility of exploring Penn's Landing via a beautifully terraced park.

Take a Break--The block of "Two Street" between Chestnut and Market contains lots of good, casual restaurants such as Cuba Libre, Serrano, Sassafras, and Café Spice.

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Perhaps deterred by the large, blocky Hyatt Regency between you and the water, head back to the florid Corn Exchange Bank at 2nd and Chestnut streets, then turn right onto one of the liveliest blocks in the historic area. Once you hit the newly widened sidewalks of Market Street (High St. in Colonial times), you'll find a different world, where a burst of boutiques, bars, and upgraded bistros like Fork, Farmicia, and Continental have replaced discount clothing stores. The many alleyways between Front and 5th streets, with names like Trotter Street, Bank Street, and Strawberry Street, testify to the activities and preoccupations of Colonial residents. A particular favorite facade of mine is at 22 S. 3rd St. This is the:

3. Norwegian Seaman's Church

This William Strickland gem from 1837, with Corinthian columns and granite steps, is now a restaurant and club.

If you took the first walking tour, continue right through the Franklin Court stop (stop number 4) to Market Street and Christ Church. Otherwise continue on Market Street until you are between 3rd and 4th streets, where you will find:

4. Franklin Court

This was Ben Franklin's final home, and is now a post office.

Standing on Market Street, you can't miss the graceful spire of:

5. Christ Church

Urban renewal removed the unsightly buildings that hid the church walls from Market Street. Christ Church, with its restful benches and adjoining cemetery, is Philadelphia's leading place of worship.

Take a Break--It may be a bit early for another refueling stop, but the block of Church Street directly to the west of the church contains Old City Coffee at no. 221, a favorite place for marvelous coffee and light lunches. Petit 4 Pastry Studio at 160 N. 3rd St has handmade truffles, tarts, and pastries, plus coffee drinks in a charmingly funky setting. If the end of the day is approaching by the time you get here, duck underneath the Market Street ramp to I-95 at Front Street to reach Panorama's wine bar and bistro.

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Walk east down Church Street and take a left at Front Street. Walk north along Front Street for 4 short blocks to get the flavor of the 1830s warehouses, such as Girard at 18-30 N. Front St. and Smythe Stores at 101 Arch St. If you continued north and east, you would come to the clubs and restaurants on the water, such as Hibachi and Rock Lobster. Instead, take a left onto:

6. Elfreth's Alley

Since 1702, this has been the oldest continuously occupied group of homes in America. See for a full description of these tiny houses. Several courts are perfect for wandering into, and you can enter the house at no. 126 and shop at the gift boutique at no. 124.

Walk to the end of Elfreth's Alley and make a right back onto 2nd Street, with its china and restaurant-supply stores. Detour north for a minute to look at 2nd Street Art Building, which houses the Clay Studio and NEXUS galleries, and stop when you reach Quarry Street to visit the:

7. Fireman's Hall Museum

This restored century-old firehouse contains a hand pump used by Ben Franklin, who helped advance firefighting beyond tossing water from rudimentary wooden buckets. On display are 19th- and 20th-century fire wagons, along with assorted firefighting tools and memorabilia.

Head south now and turn right on Arch Street, where you'll come to no. 239, the:

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