Hotmail
Never heard of Istria? Well, you will
If you're traveling from Italy, be sure to stop in this bordering Croatian gem
Driving south from Trieste, Italy, the first corner of Croatia you encounter is the triangular peninsula called Istria. On my last trip, I never made it any farther. Now being touted as the “new Tuscany,” Istria has in fact long been noted for its beautiful Adriatic coast, lush forests, olive groves, vineyards and offshore islands.
Long a part of the Roman Empire and Italy, Istria has more recently acquired an overlay of Austrian and Slavic influences that have done little to change the essentially Italian character of the region. The landscape is one of vineyards, olive groves and Venetian-style church towers; its kitchens offer pasta and pizza; and Italian is spoken almost as readily as Croatian.
The recent history is a little convoluted. After World War I, Italy wrested control of the region from the Austro-Hungarian Empire, which had governed it for more than 100 years. After World War II, Tito claimed it for Yugoslavia; at that time, a determined effort was made to stamp out the Italian language and culture. After Tito’s death, in the late 1980s, Croatia broke away from Yugoslavia, taking Istria with it. In the ensuing war with Serbia, Istria was spared destruction and much of the old, Italian character resurfaced.
Recently, Istria has regained its tourism footing. Its 150-mile coastline is packed with Germans, Austrians, Slovenians and Italians from June through September, the region’s high season. It is easy to get to. Hydrofoils cross the Adriatic Sea from Venice in about an hour and a half, and most of the region is within a 90-minute drive of Trieste. Croatia Air connects Pula, at the southern tip of the peninsula, with many European capitals as well.
Magazine articles and guidebooks often give the impression that prices in Croatia are low, but Istria cannot be considered a cheap vacation. It does cost less than Italy or Austria, and it is far more rustic, especially in the interior. The best bets for bargains are private rooms away from the coast, especially in the off-season, when prices drop dramatically (sometimes more than 50 percent). Summer is too crowded, anyway, but May and October are perfect.
Sightseeing and dining
The main tourist center is the town of Porec, on the west coast. Set beside the stunningly blue Adriatic Sea, the town could have been created by Disney. The sightseeing highlight is the incandescent mosaic art of the Basilica of St. Euphrasius, which is set in the midst of the narrow streets that crisscross the Old Town. The town’s main street, Dekamanus, was built by the Romans to allow 10 soldiers to walk abreast. It leads past souvenir shops, cafes and ice cream stores to the sparse remains of the ancient Roman forum.
Just to the north and south of Porec, hotels and campsites pepper the coast. Here, swimming pools glint in the sun above the crystal waters of the Adriatic, and bike paths wind through vineyards and olive groves. The beaches are rocky, making this a wonderful area for diving as well as for swimming, windsurfing and sailing.
|
Porec is a good base for an exploration of the hill towns of central Istria, such as Motovun, which overlooks Istria’s prime truffle-hunting forests; Hum, which claims to be the smallest town in the world; Roc, home to the world’s main concertina festival; and Groznjan, a town that found new life when artists set up their studios in its abandoned rock houses. These villages sit on hilltops surrounded by impressive medieval walls. Walking down their narrow cobbled streets, flanked by stone houses with flowers spilling from the windows, immediately transports a visitor back in time.
Farther south along the west coast is the town of Rovinj, one of the most-photographed towns in Istria. It sits on what was once a small island, and it seems to float on the sea. Indeed, some say it is a piece of Venice that floated across the sea. The town’s narrow, stony streets rise to the Church of St. Euphemia, whose patio provides wonderful views along the coast and across the Adriatic. The main restaurants surround the small port, which is filled with fishing boats and luxury yachts.
To the far south, Pula, the industrial center and port of Istria, has the richest remains of the Roman Empire. The amphitheater, which was built in the first century B.C. and seated 22,000 people, has wonderfully preserved outer walls, though little is left of the interior seats and galleries. A triumphal arch erected for the Roman general Sergius leads into the old town center, which has some sketchy remains of the old Roman forum and the Temple of Augustus.
About 7 miles north of Pula, the Church of St. Blaise in Vodnjan contains the largest collection of saintly relics outside of Rome. The church claims relics from 270 saints. Behind the altar is an amazing collection of mummies, which were moved here from Venice in 1818. Miraculously, the bodies have not decayed. This is also the largest church in Istria and has its tallest bell tower — the same height as the bell tower of Saint Mark’s in Venice.
- Discuss Story On Newsvine
-
Rate Story:
View popularLowHigh - Instant Message
MORE FROM EUROPE TRAVEL |
 Europe Travel Section Front |
| Add Europe Travel headlines to your news reader: |
Resource guide