Looking at wine through rosé-colored glasses

United States
SoloRosa 2005 California rosé ($15): Winemaker Jeff Morgan is so devoted to rosé he wrote a book about it. His mix of Napa sangiovese and Lodi merlot is juicy and inviting (if on the big side), filled with jumping berry, basil and white spices. Barrel fermentation adds softness to a ping-ponging acidity. Hits all the right notes.

Clos LaChance 2005 Central Coast rosé “Pink-Throated Brilliant” ($14): Part of this San Martin, Calif., winery’s “Hummingbird Series,” this one named for a threatened species found in South America. Ripe fruit and slight dried-leaf scents, with a spritzy note on the tongue. Refreshing and balanced, with fresh red fruit and a clean ending. Grenache, cinsault, syrah and carignane.

Soter 2005 Yamhill-Carlton rosé “North Valley” ($20):  Pinot noir rosé from winemaker Tony Soter’s Oregon estate. Subtle herbal notes, almost too soft, but a quiet approach makes it evocative, like a Marsannay rosé from Burgundy. The elegance is admirable. We also liked the A to Z Wineworks 2005 rosé ($12) from Oregon, which may be more widely available.

Three Rivers Winery 2005 estate rosé ($13): From Walla Walla, Wash. An all-cabernet franc wine, with layers of sweet strawberry and graphite leaping out, underlined by fresh leaves and a firm minerality. Not quite as firm as a Chinon, but the aromatics are pleasingly similar.

Bedell Cellars 2004 North Fork “Domaines CC Rosé” ($9): From Long Island. Fresh and popping, with peach, fresh strawberry and green leaves. Exactly what rosé should be — juicy, intriguing and yet not frivolous. Cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc and merlot.

Italy
Costaripa 2005 Garda Classico chiaretto “Rosamara” ($18, Empson USA): Chiaretto describes rosé made from the groppello grape native to Lombardy, in northern Italy. This one, made by winemaker Mattia Vezzola, who also crafts Bellavista sparkling wine, also mixes in sangiovese, marzemino and barbera. Dusty fresh fruit on the nose, with tangy berry and a spicy finish that bites a bit. A bit odd, but fascinatingly layered.

Spain
Muga 2005 Rioja rosado ($11, Tempranillo Inc.): A burst of tree fruit mixes with dusty overtones. Zingy and sharp-edged, as a Spanish rosé should be, with a paper-edge crisp finish. Garnacha, viura and tempranillo.

Southern Hemisphere
Goats do Roam 2006 Coastal Region rosé ($10, Vineyard Brands): From the popular South African producer. Lush and a bit peppery amid sweet cherry fruit. An almost leathery disposition, and drier than it initially lets on, defined by a mineral focus. From shiraz, pinotage, cinsaut, grenache, gamay and merlot.

Yering Station 2004 Yarra Valley pinot noir rosé ($13, Domaine Select): From cooler-climate vineyards in Victoria on Australia’s southern coast. A mushroomed pinot scent dominates amid fresh berries. Weighty and dark fuschia in color, with a bitter hint at the end, but intriguing and showing roots that go deeper than a simple summer wine.

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