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Jaca - Culture in the Pyrenees
A 50-kilometer drive further to the south, along Route A132, takes one through the unusual, hulking, eroded reddish-brown rock formations know as Los Mallos. The small towns in this region, like Agüero and Riglos, appear to have hardly changed over the past century. About 15 kilometers past Los Mallos, take the road back north toward Loarre and follow signs to the Castillo de Loarre, which is about another 15 kilometers up a winding road.
This breathtaking castle is said to be the oldest major fortification in Spain. It was founded on a rocky outcropping as a stronghold against the Moors by the first ruler of Aragon and commands a sweeping panorama of the broad plains to the south. To the north it is guarded by mountains. Even in a country known for castles, Loarre stands out as one of the most spectacular. Today, the church within the castle is the scene of many picturesque weddings.
Jaca can serve as the perfect center for exploring the central Pyrenees and the original heart of Spain. With its combination of scenery, history, art, wine and cuisine — and the locals’ famously infectious love of life — Jaca is a town worth visiting.
Notes
Getting around the region requires a car. The drives are twisting and turning with spectacular views seemingly around every bend. Call Auto Europe (1-800-223-5555) or go to its Web site for the best prices.
The cozy Hotel Conde Aznar (974-361050) has rustically decorated rooms and has been a mainstay in this city for decades. The restaurant, La Cocina Arogonesa, is excellent as well. Double rooms cost about $100 a night.
More inexpensive is the simple, family-run Hotel Ramiro I (974-361367).
The best bargain lodging is in one of the Tourism Real houses out in the countryside. Some of these houses, some with exceptional rooms, cost from $60 to $100 a night for double rooms.
Restaurant Lillium (974-355356) is right across from the citadel. Run by two brothers, it is known for its excellent meals at affordable prices.
A special treat is a meal in the mountains in the village of Hecho at the famous Restaurant Gaby-Casa Blasquico (974-375007). The beautifully decorated wood-and-stone restaurant serves local meats and produce with an innovative flair.
Charles Leocha is nationally-recognized expert on saving money and the publisher of Tripso. He is also the Boston-based author of "SkiSnowboard America & Canada." E-mail him or visit his Web site. Want to sound off about one of his columns? Try visiting Leocha's forum.
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