Avoid getting burned by sunscreen products

Herb Weisbaum • Profile • E-mail

No one really likes using sunscreen — it’s messy and expensive — but we all know we should put it on when we go outside for any length of time.

Most sunscreens help prevent sunburn, but even the best products on the market “don’t absolutely protect you from skin cancer,” says Dr. Allan Oseroff, chairman of the Department of Dermatology at the Roswell Park Cancer Institute in Buffalo, N.Y.

Dr. Oseroff worries that sunscreens give people a false sense of security. “Because they allow you to spend more time in the sun without getting burned, you could wind up with more sun exposure than you would without it.”

SPF deciphered
Buying a good sunscreen means doing more than deciding what Sun Protection Factor (SPF) you need. The SPF number only tells you how much of the sun’s UVB radiation, the so-called “burning rays,” the product blocks.

You should use a sunscreen that is at least SPF 15, which will block 93 percent of the burning UVB rays. If you’re planning to be under the sun for most of the day, you may want to go with an SPF 30, which blocks 96.7 percent of UVB rays.

While an SPF 30 offers a bit more protection from sunburn, it does not, as some people think, double the time you can stay in the sun.

Anything higher than an SPF 30, will cost more but won’t give you significantly more protection, experts say.

UVA protection
However, SPF doesn’t tell you whether it also blocks the sun’s UVA rays — the ones that go deeper into the skin and cause premature aging.

Dermatologists say both UVB and UVA radiation increase your risk of skin cancer.

To see if you're getting enough UVA protection, check the ingredient label. Look for titanium dioxide, zinc oxide or avobenzone, also called Parsol 1789.

Titanium dioxide and zinc oxide are physical blocks that reflect sunlight. Many people don’t like them because they feel chalky. Parsol 1789 is a chemical that absorbs the UVA rays, but it quickly losses its effectiveness. An hour after putting it on, “much of its protection is gone,” Oseroff says, “but you have no way of knowing that."

Picking a sunscreen — The American Academy of Dermatology recommends everyone should wear a Sun Protection Factor 30 sunscreen or more. — Don't believe the “broad-spectrum” claims on sunscreen labels. The U.S. has no standard measurement of blockage for the other kind of harmful rays, UVA. — The best consumers can do for now is read the label for these UVA blocking ingredients: zinc oxide, titanium dioxide or avobenzone (Parsol 1789).

This year, there’s something new, an ingredient called Helioplex. It stabilizes Parsol 1789 and keeps it from breaking down as quickly under the sun. Helioplex is now available in some Neutrogena and Aveeno sunscreens. All the dermatologists I spoke with say this is a big advance in sun protection. Even so, a product with Helioplex should still be reapplied as often as any other sunscreen.

Apply correctly
But even the best sunscreen needs to be used properly to get the maximum protection possible.

“We recommend putting it on at least 20 to 30 minutes before going outdoors,” says Dr. Renata Jenkin, a dermatologist at Seattle’s Virginia Mason Medical Center. “Just like any other medication, it needs time to come on board,” she explains. “So put your sun block on before you go to the beach and not when you’re sitting on your beach towel.”

Experts say most people don’t use enough sunscreen, so they’re not getting the SPF figure listed on the package. For adequate coverage, an adult needs to use a full ounce of sunscreen, which is about two tablespoons.

For the best results, most sunscreens — even those that say they are “water resistant” — will need to be reapplied every two hours and immediately after swimming, the American Cancer Society says. Remember, most of what you apply will rub off when you dry yourself with a towel.

And one new product may even be hitting store shelves as early as next summer, according to Dr. John Swarztberg, head of the editorial board at the U.C. Berkeley Wellness Letter. A new ingredient called Mexoryl, developed by French cosmetic giant L’Oreal, has been found to be highly effective at absorbing UVA and maintain its effectiveness under the sun.

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