Frommer's best bets for dining in Los Angeles

updated 3:03 p.m. ET June 5, 2006

As one of the world's cultural crossroads, Los Angeles is an international atlas of exotic cuisines: Afghan, Argentinean, Armenian, Burmese, Cajun, Cambodian, Caribbean, Cuban, Ethiopian, Indian, Jewish, Korean, Lebanese, Moroccan, Oaxacan, Peruvian, Persian, Spanish, Thai, Vietnamese. . . well, you get the point. Whatever you're in the mood for, this town has it covered, and all you need to join the dinner party is an adventurous palate because half the fun of visiting Los Angeles is experiencing worldly dishes that only a major metropolis can provide. And since it's L.A., there's always the added bonus of spotting celebrities.

Although it's those famous celebrity chef and celebrity-owned restaurants that attract most of the media limelight, the majority of L.A.'s best dining experiences are at its small neighborhood haunts and minimalls, the kind you'll never find unless someone lets you in on the city's dining secrets, and this chapter is full of them.

While dining in Los Angeles is almost always a hassle-free experience, there are a few things you should keep in mind the next time you eat out:

If you want a table at the restaurants with the best reputations, you probably need to book several weeks in advance for weekends, and at least 2 weeks ahead for weekdays.

If there's a long wait for a table, ask if you can order at the bar, which is often faster and more fun.

Don't leave anything valuable in your car while dining. Also, it's best to give the parking valet only the key to your car, not your hotel room or house key.

Remember, it's against the law to smoke in any restaurant in California, even if it has a separate bar or lounge area. You're welcome to smoke outside, however.

This ain't New York: Plan on dining early. Most restaurants close their kitchens around 10 p.m.

Grace (7360 Beverly Blvd., Los Angeles; tel. 323/934-4400): The best overall dining experience in Los Angeles. Iron Chef Neal Fraser was trained by America's finest chefs, and it shows (the fois gras served two ways is worth the trip alone). Sophisticated yet unpretentious, Grace is a splurge worth making.

Koi (730 N. La Cienega Blvd., West Hollywood; tel. 310/659-9449): The combination of soothing feng shui ambience and superb Asian fusion cuisine has made Koi one of the hottest restaurants in L.A. Hollywood's biggest celebrities -- George Clooney, Jennifer Garner, the Osbournes, Demi and Ashton -- arrive here nightly to nosh on addictive dishes such as baked crab rolls with edible rice paper and miso-bronzed black cod.

Saddle Peak Lodge (419 Cold Canyon Rd., Calabasas; tel. 818/222-3888): In L.A., a romantic restaurant is one without cellphone service (that would be in the hills above Malibu). This converted hunting lodge is quite the quixotic setting for a meaty meal for two. Candlelit tables, a crackling fireplace, and a Wine Spectator?award-winning wine list are sure bets for creating la mood d'amour.

Beacon (3280 Helms Ave., Culver City; tel. 310/838-7500): Chef Kazuto Matsusaka serves Spago-quality Asian fusion and a fraction of the price at this humble Culver City hot spot. The warm crispy oysters in lettuce cups, stir-fried mushroom salad, and miso-marinated black cod are fantastic.

Meson G (6703 Melrose Ave., Los Angeles; tel. 323/525-1415): Take a culinary tour around the world with Chef Josef Centeno's globally inspired small-plate sensations. Crunchy kaboucha squash poppers, salt cod fritters, turnip soup, Maine scallop ceviche, fois gras panna cotta -- the man's a friggin' genius. You'll also dig the suave setting on hip Melrose Avenue.

Mastro's Steakhouse (246 N. Canon Dr., Beverly Hills; tel. 310/888-8782): You'll find Fred Flintstone size slabs of hand-cut USDA beef, oysters the size of your palm, and a big pile of creamy mashed potatoes mixed with sour cream, chives, bacon, and butter. God bless America.

Tantra (3705 W. Sunset Blvd., Silver Lake; tel. 323/663-8268): Bollywood meets Hollywood at L.A.'s übertrendy Indian restaurant and nightclub. It took a studio design company to create the too-cool ambience, and the food is superb. Lord Ganesha watches over Silver Lake hipsters as they dine, dance, and drink Shiva's Revenges.

La Cachette (10506 Santa Monica Blvd., Century City; tel. 310/470-4992): Jean Francois Meteigner, owner and executive chef of this tres romantique restaurant, is one of America's most influential French chefs, and his cuisine naturelle menu is full of flavor while 90% free of cream and butter.

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The Hump (3221 Donald Douglas Loop Rd., Santa Monica; tel. 310/313-0977): Claim a sushi bar as L.A.'s best -- and I think this is the best -- and you're sure to start an argument. The chefs at The Hump are deadly serious about their sushi: Flown in daily from Tokyo's Tsukijii and Fukuoka fish markets in oxygen-filled containers, it's so fresh that there's a sign at the entrance warning the faint-of-heart that the meat's still moving.

Restaurant Hama (213 Windward Ave., Venice; tel. 310/396-8783): It's the always- festive atmosphere that makes everyone feel welcome at this lively Japanese restaurant. Party along with the six cheery sushi chefs as they slice, dice, and drink many rounds of beers and sake. By closing time, everyone's singing along to "Hotel California."

Frida (236 S. Beverly Dr., Beverly Hills; tel. 310/278-7666): This Mexican restaurant's cuisine is so authentic the executive chef's ancestors are responsible for the recipes (the mole dishes alone are worth the drive over here). Bite into a handmade soft taco brimming with sautéed shrimp bathed in a dark, tangy pasilla-orange sauce, and you'll know why everyone's talking about this Beverly Hills newcomer.

Water Grill (544 S. Grand Ave., Downtown; tel. 213/891-0900): A beautiful contemporary fish house that serves imaginative dishes influenced by America's regional cuisines. An absolutely huge raw bar features the best clams, crabs, shrimp, and oysters available, and the fish is so fresh it practically jumps onto the plate.

The Apple Pan (10801 Pico Blvd., West L.A.; tel. 310/475-3585): Stand in line for the city's best hamburger. Choose from the "steakburger" or the saucy "hickory burger" -- though regulars know to get hickory sauce on the side instead (for french-fry dipping). The wallpaper looks like it dates from opening day in 1947 at this family-run cottage on the busy Westside.

Nonya (61 N. Raymond Ave.; tel. 626/583-8398): Yet another reason to make the drive to Pasadena is this gorgeous restaurant that serves a cuisine you've probably never even heard of: Peranakan, a blend of Chinese and Malaysian culinary styles. Chile-marinated chicken grilled in banana leaves? A mango-halibut salad? Let's go.

House of Blues Gospel Brunch (8430 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood; tel. 323/848-5100): For more than a decade the HOB has hosted a raucous Sunday brunch that's simmering with high-energy gospel groups and all-you-can-eat Southern home cookin'. It's brunch you can shake your booty to.

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