A walking tour of sweet Auburn in Atlanta

9. The Odd Fellows Building and Auditorium

This is another black fraternal lodge, which originated in Atlanta in 1870. Completed in 1914, the building later became headquarters for an insurance company.

Across the street, at 231-245 Auburn Ave., is:

10. The Herndon Building

This building, erected in 1924, is named for Alonzo Herndon, an ex-slave who went on to found the Atlanta Life Insurance Company. By 1930, the Auburn business district supported 121 black-owned businesses and 39 black professionals.

Make a left on Butler Street and you'll see:

11. The Butler Street YMCA

Built in the early 1900s, this was a popular meeting place for civil rights leaders. Today, the building is augmented by a modern YMCA across the street.

Continue south along Butler Street to the:

12. Sweet Auburn Curb Market

The market is located just below Edgewood Avenue. Formerly called the Municipal Market, this historic market dates to 1924, when Atlanta was still a segregated city. Whites shopped within, while blacks were only permitted to patronize stalls lining the curb. The market's current name reflects that era. Today, it sells groceries and fresh produce -- including many regional and ethnic items such as ham hocks and chitlins ("We sell every part of the pig here but the oink," says the owner). Fully cooked ethnic meals are available here, and there is seating so you can dig in right away. Open Monday through Thursday from 8am to 6pm, Friday and Saturday from 8am to 7pm.

Take a Break -- The Sweet Auburn Curb Market, 209 Edgewood Ave. (tel. 404/659-1665), is a delightful mix of scents and sights. Seating is scattered throughout in case you just can't wait to get home to eat your purchases. Variety abounds with fresh fish, meats, veggies, salads and flowers to take home, plus fully cooked foods from every corner of the earth -- everything from specialty cheesecakes to chitlins. Open Monday to Thursday from 8am to 6pm, Friday and Saturday from 8am to 7pm.

Walk back to Auburn Avenue on Butler Street and turn left. To your right, at 220 Auburn Ave., is:

13. The Big Bethel African Methodist Episcopal Church

This church was originally built in the 1890s, destroyed by fire, and then rebuilt in 1924. In the 1920s, John Wesley Dobbs called the Bethel "a towering edifice to black freedom."

Farther along, at 186 Auburn Ave., is:

14. The Royal Peacock Club

This music club's walls are painted from floor to ceiling with peacocks. Closed for years, it presented top black entertainers such as Ray Charles, Aretha Franklin, and Dizzy Gillespie in its heyday.

At 135 Auburn Ave., the corner of Auburn Avenue and Courtland Street, is:

15. The APEX (African-American Panoramic Experience) Museum

This museum features exhibits on the history of Sweet Auburn and the African-American experience, including a children's gallery with interactive displays. You can call tel. 404/521-2739 to see if there's anything special happening at the museum while you're in town.

Cross the street to:

16. Herndon Plaza

Here, you can see exhibits on the high-powered Herndon family, including patriarch Alonzo Herndon, a former slave who started the Atlanta Life Insurance Company.

If you'd like to do further research on the history of Auburn Avenue -- or on any aspect of African-American history and culture -- continue on to 101 Auburn Ave.:

17. The Auburn Avenue Research Library on African-American Culture and History

This is the place to go for answers about African-American history. Operated by the Atlanta-Fulton County Library System, the library's collection includes literature, documents, rare records, and more. A Heritage Center on the premises features special exhibits, workshops, seminars, lectures, and events. Open Monday to Thursday 10am to 8pm, and Friday to Sunday noon to 6pm.

For more on what to see and do in Atlanta, visit our complete guide online at www.frommers.com/destinations/atlanta.

Frommer’s is America’s bestselling travel guide series. Visit Frommers.com to find great deals, get information on over 3,500 destinations, and book your trip. © 2006 Wiley Publishing, Inc. Republication or redistribution of Frommer's content is expressly prohibited without the prior written consent of Wiley.

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