Fire up the grill with this Lone Star specialty

To make the Lone Star rib rub
Place the salt, chile powder, cracked pepper, garlic powder, oregano, cayenne, and cumin in a small bowl and mix with your fingers. Set aside 1 tablespoon of the rub for the Bare-Bones Barbecue Sauce.

To make the mop sauce
Place the beer, vinegar, coffee, and 1 1/2 tablespoons of the Lone Star rib rub in a nonreactive bowl and whisk to mix. Set the mop sauce and remaining rub aside separately.

To prepare the ribs
Place a rack of ribs meat side down on a baking sheet. Remove the thin, papery membrane from the back of the rack by inserting a slender implement, such as a butter knife or the tip of a meat thermometer, under it. The best place to start is on one of the middle bones. Using a dishcloth, paper towel, or pliers to gain a secure grip, peel off the membrane. Repeat with the remaining rack.
Generously sprinkle the ribs on both sides with the remaining rub, using about 1 tablespoon per side and rubbing it onto the meat. (Any leftover rub will keep for several weeks in a sealed jar away from heat and light.) Cover the ribs with plastic wrap and refrigerate them while you set up the grill under the grate.
Set up a charcoal grill for indirect grilling and preheat to medium (325 to 350 degrees F). Place a large drip pan in the center of the grill.
When ready to cook, brush and oil the grill grate. Place the ribs bone side down in the center of the grate over the drip pan and away from the heat. Toss half of the wood chips on each mound of coals. Cover the grill and cook ribs for 45 minutes.
Mop the ribs on both sides with some of the mop sauce. Re-cover the grill and continue cooking the ribs until they are well browned, cooked through, and tender enough to pull apart with your fingers, 45 minutes to 1 1/4 hours longer, 1 1/2 to 2 hours in all. When the ribs are done, the meat will have shrunk back from the ends of the bones by about 1/4 inch. Mop the ribs once or twice more and replenish the coals as needed.
Transfer the ribs to a larger platter or cutting board and let rest for a few minutes. If possible, save the drippings from the ribs for the Bare-Bones Barbecue Sauce (see Note). Cut the racks in half, if you are serving 4, or into 1- or 2-rib pieces.