Reef and rain forest

By Melisse Gelula

updated 7:36 p.m. ET May 12, 2006

"No worries" is virtually the slogan of Queensland. Although to Australians it simply means "no problem," to me it sounded like a mantra--and not just because I was on a spa journey through Tropical North Queensland and the Great Barrier Reef. Queenslanders implicitly prize a calm state of mind and enjoy a laid-back lifestyle amid diverse natural beauty. The small tropical islands of the Great Barrier Reef have the world's best snorkeling and scuba diving. Along the coast, ancient rain forests teem with exotic foliage and wildlife. No worries indeed.

And then there are the spas, by themselves worthy of a trip around the world. Small in size and ingeniously placed inches from the ocean and the rain forest, they have not only Western and Asian therapies but Aboriginal Australian treatments not widely found elsewhere. Having traveled so far, I, like many visitors, wanted to stay at both rain forest and island spas. To do so is not an intimidating financial undertaking. The favorable exchange rate and low cost of living make Australia an affordable destination. Many spa packages cost less than a visit to the Caribbean, even with airfare. Vacationing North Americans have also discovered the country as an exciting and politically stable destination.

Getting around Australia is easy, but getting there is less so. When I arrived in Sydney after a 14-hour flight from Los Angeles, I recuperated at the Observatory Hotel before leaving for Queensland. The hotel spa, known for its pool with a twinkling celestial ceiling, also has a flotation tank. International guests are offered a complimentary float, which is said to help counter jet lag. In the dark saltwater capsule, I fell asleep, my worries already lessening.

Silky Oaks Lodge

I don't have my togs, but I want to take you for a dip in the billabong." said Deb Turnbull, the spa director and a yoga instructor at Silky Oaks Lodge. I'd just arrived at this rain forest resort, after a three-hour flight north from Sydney and then an hour's drive north from Cairns (pronounced cans) on the wild, winding two-lane Captain Cook Highway that follows the craggy coast. Young Ozzies hang glide off the cliffs and over the water, landing on an imperceptible sliver of land below. I must have looked worried, because my driver said, "We all learn to swim in school."

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The billabong, I soon learned, is the runover of a river. The Mossman, which winds through Silky Oaks, was especially high, and its waterfall, swollen with rainwater, pounded down across from where we stood. I felt ripples of energy, not just from the rushing water but also from the ancient forest. The local indigenous people, the Kuku Yalanji, revere the river and the forest in this protected area. "Waterfalls are sacred places for the Aboriginal people, particularly women," Deb explained. I followed her lead and slipped off my clothes and slid into the cool, clear water. Who needs togs? We sat still and silent on smooth rocks, the waterfall rushing over us, until two resort guests approached the billabong. Fresh caught, we slid back into the water to conceal ourselves.

Later, at the Healing Waters Spa, I had a gorgeous three-hour scrub-wrap-and-massage treatment called the Dreaming. Aboriginal spirituality includes stories about spirits and animals, and the Dreaming refers to these, as well as to the time of creation and sometimes to one's personal path. Deb explained that the products and treatments come from Li'tya, a small Australian company that uses the native plants and healing traditions of the Aboriginal people and works only with spas whose philosophy and practice respect these origins.

For the Kodo massage (Kodo means "melody"), Deb lightly dragged coolamons down my back; these are wooden tools used by indigenous people for holding everything from seeds to babies. "They peel back layers and draw up the energy of a person," said Deb, who clacked them together after each stroke. As the CD (with didgeridoos) and the treatment ended, Deb opened the glass doors facing a dense knot of forest so I could hear the rain that had just begun.

The next day, Deb and I went on a guided Dreamtime Rain Forest Walk lead by Kuku Yalanji guides. Before we started, Aaron, whose Aboriginal name is Kalka Dudu, asked us to wait while he indicated to the ancestors that some white friends were coming into the rain forest--and that he'd see that we left. "You don't want to be unwelcome here," Aaron warned. "The forest protects itself."

On our walk, nearly every plant and enormous seed he pointed out provided sustenance or medicine or was used as a tool. He also shared stories about the healing properties of the local water, which comes from Mount Manjal Dimbi, the home of a benevolent spirit who ended drought. Before we left, I tried a piece of damper (a rustic Australian bread) drizzled with golden syrup and washed it down with a cup of tea. We all ate as if the gentle walk had been more of a hike.

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