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Antioxidants & topical vitamin creams

Vitamin C
Vitamin C is an antioxidant nutrient that helps recycle Vitamin E. It also promotes collagen formation. It claims to repair and protect skin by stimulating cell renewal and increasing healthy circulation.

The facts
Topical vitamin C may reduce wrinkles, thicken skin and protect against sun damage. It's difficult to manufacture and degrades rapidly, however, so it must be stored in airtight, light-resistant containers. Many of the first vitamin C products couldn't penetrate the skin deeply enough to be effective, but newer products may be more absorbent. Side effects may include stinging and irritation. Larger studies are needed to prove whether topical vitamin C can reduce wrinkles.

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Products

  • MD Skin Care Aging cream, $58
  • Skinmedica Vitamin C Complex, $76
  • Avalon Organics Vitamin C Renewal facial cream, $19.95

Vitamin E
Vitamin E, an antioxidant nutrient, is the major antioxidant found in human skin. Declining levels in skin are associated with wrinkles.

The claim
Neutralizes free radicals for a soft, smooth, radiant complexion

The facts
Animal studies show that topical vitamin E may reduce wrinkling. One of the few human studies shows a slight reduction in wrinkling, skin roughness, length of facial lines and wrinkle depth. Side effects may include swollen, reddened and itchy skin (contact dermatitis). Tocopherols and tocopherol acetate are the most common forms of vitamin E found in cosmetics, but they may be poorly absorbed by skin. More research is needed to determine if vitamin E reduces wrinkles effectively by itself or in combination with other antioxidants.

Products

  • Nutra-E Pure Vitamin E skin cream, $5.99
  • Nutra-E Pure Vitamin E skin oil, $7.99
  • Jason Vitamin E cream, $12

Soy isoflavones
Protein extracts of soybean and soy milk contain several different estrogen-like substances called isoflavones. Because they may mimic the effects of estrogen, they're sometimes called phytoestrogens. Phytoestrogens may produce wrinkle-reducing effects on skin that are similar to those resulting from hormone therapy.

The claim
Reduce fine lines and wrinkles

The facts
Animal studies show that soy isoflavones protect skin against sun damage and may increase production of hyaluronic acid, a substance that thickens skin and reduces wrinkles by binding to water molecules in skin. A small clinical study of soy isoflavones shows that they may lighten age spots. Although oral soy isoflavones may increase the risk of some cancers, it's unknown if topical products do the same. Researchers believe that soy isoflavones may help reduce wrinkles, but caution that more human research is needed to determine their safety and effectiveness.

Products

  • Aveeno Positively Radiant Anti-Wrinkle cream, $15.99
  • Archipelago Botanicals Milk Soy cream, $16

Prescription topical creams (recommended by Dr. Wattenberg)
The following two prescription creams (Retin-A and Renova) contain “tretinoin.” Tretinoin is most commonly used to treat acne. It works partly by keeping the skin pores clear. But now, tretinoin is also in two creams: Retin-A and Renova.

Retin-A
Retin-A is an acne treatment that also removes wrinkles and improves skin appearance and condition. Retin-A contains tretinoin (sometimes called retinolic acid), which is derived from vitamin A. It can reduce severe wrinkles within only 6 weeks and completely remove fine lines. Retin-A acts by improving blood supply to the skin, which in turn increases the turnover of dead skin cells. Accordingly, new more subtle and younger looking skin appears at the surface.

Use
There are two versions of Retin-A available: the 0.05% cream, which is designed for wrinkles, and the 0.1% cream, which is designed for acne. If you have never used this product before, it is strongly recommend that you start at the lowest dosage and if necessary, work your way up slowly.

Renova
Renova is prescribed to reduce fine wrinkles, discoloration, and roughness on facial skin (as part of a comprehensive program of skin care and sun avoidance). While using Retin-A or Renova, keep exposure to sunlight, including sunlamps, to a minimum. If you have a sunburn, do not use the medication until you have fully recovered.

Tri-luma
Tri-luma cream is the only triple-action cream approved for the short-term and intermittent long-term treatment of moderate to severe melasma. “Melasma” is a natural darkening of the skin on your face caused by excessive production of melanin, the pigment that causes your skin to tan. It is the scientific name for dark spots, sunspots or darkened patches of the face/skin. Tri-luma cream is a unique medicine because it combines three effective ingredients into a single tube — giving you a single, once-a-day product to put on your face at bedtime. The latest long-term safety studies confirm that Tri-luma cream is safe and effective when used for longer than eight weeks and repeatedly thereafter when melasma recurs.

Avage
Avage cream is an elegant formulation that has been proven to effectively reduce facial fine wrinkles and certain types of dark and light spots on your face. Avage cream contains the active ingredient tazarotene in an emollient cream formulation. Tazarotene is a retinoid, a potent prescription medication. Although scientists do not know how tazarotene works, they believe that it works below the skin's surface to provide proven visible results.


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